Hitch Receiver

REQUIRES PARTS KIT

REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS

Remove the old hitch.  Save all hardware unless otherwise noted in these instructions.

FIG 1 Shows the parts in the kit:  Hitch, hardware and spacer blocks.

FIG 2 Open the engine compartment cover

FIG 3 & 4

• Cut the wire ties holding harnesses on the hitch. (approximately 4 of them)

FIG 5 & 6

• Remove 4 bolts from the 7 way trailer plug cover. Use 5/16 socket, socket adapter and screw gun.
• Save the hardware for re-install. Note that the cover is oriented so it opens upward.

FIG 7:

• Unplug the harness from backside of the 7 pin trailer plug.
• Remove the 7 pin plug the steel bracket attached to the hitch.

FIG 8:

• If the steel bracket does NOT include an air-line coupler (2019 units), continue to Fig 13.
• If the bracket has an air coupler (2020 units) for the Tow Brake, it must be removed (Fig 9-12).

FIG 9 & 10:

• Pull the loom off of the air hose, and off the back of the air-line coupler.
• Place an adjustable wrench (or 1-1/8" wrench) on the large nut on the front side of the steel bracket (Refer to Fig 11)

FIG 11:

• Fig 11 shows how the air hose coupler is attached to the steel bracket.
• Unscrew the smaller nut on the back of the bracket using the 15/16" wrench.
• The smaller nut is attached to the angled fitting which will unscrew from the larger fitting.
• Remove the large 1-1/4" nut and the washer on the back of the steel bracket.
• Remove the air coupler parts from the steel bracket.

FIG 12:

• Air coupler parts shown disassembled and in the order they came apart. (Save all the parts)

• Remove the 2 long bolts on the steel bracket.
• Use a 7/16 socket, socket adapter, screw gun and the 7/16" wrench. Pull the bolts out of the bracket. (save hardware for re-install) FIG 14:
• Remove the steel bracket.
• Push it back toward the engine, then rotate it down around the hitch bar.
• Pull it off of the hitch bar.

FIG 15:

• Remove screws holding the shields together between the radiator and the rear cap.
• There are 2 screws joining the shields, plus a hex head TEK screw holding the hose clamp in place FIG 16:
• Remove the TEK hex head screw holding the hose clamp at the back of the shield.
• Use the 3/8" nutsetter bit or the socket adapter and a 3/8" socket to remove it. 

FIG 17:

• There are 2 additional screws holding the shields in place.
• Looking at the left rear of the coach, one screw will be up above the driver side back-up light.
• You can get to that screw without removing the light, but you have get to it from underneath the coach.
• The screw goes into the rear lip of the shield similar to the TEK screw in Fig 16.

FIG 18:

• Remove the exhaust tip in order to access the last screw holding the shields.
• Loosen the two clamp nuts at the side of the exhaust tip to remove the tip.
• Use the 9/16" impact socket and impact driver to loosen the two nuts.
• Pull the exhaust tip off.

FIG 19:

• Remove the final screw holding the shields in place.

FIG 20:

• Remove the shields between rear cap and radiator.
• Remove them one at a time, move the harness at the back out of the way as you lift the shield.
• Each shield must slide toward the center, then lift from the rear and tilt toward the radiator.
• Lift carefully out of the opening taking care not to damage the radiator.

FIG 21

FIG 21:

• Lift the shields one at a time out of the space between the radiator and rear cap.

FIG 22:

• Remove only thenuts closest to the end ofboth eye bolts holding the mud flap in place (circled).
• There is one eye bolt on each side of the hitch attached to a small angle bracket (use 3/4" socket, ratchet, and 3/4" wrench)
• IMPORTANT: ONLY remove the nut closest to the end of the eye bolt.  The nut closest to the eye bolt "loop" will retain the proper positioning for the mud flap if it is not turned or moved.  Use the wrench and socket to separate the nuts, but only turn the nut at the end of the eye bolt.
• Lower the eye bolts and the mud flap out of the way.

REMOVE THE DAMAGED HITCH

• There are four 1/2" Grade 8 bolts holding the hitch to the frame (on each side of the hitch).
• In the photo; there are three nuts (circled) and one hidden holding the angle bracket for the mud flap eye bolt.
• You will need the impact driver, 3/4" impact socket, and the 3/4" wrench.

FIG 24:

• NOTE: Before removing any nuts and bolts:

As you look at Fig 23, the two bolts toward the rear of the vehicle (circled in yellow) are spaced closer together than the bolt holding the angle bracket and the one farther forward (circled).  The bolts spaced farthest apart (angle bracket bolt and one further forward) go through a spacer block shown in Fig 24.  The spacer block stays where it is and will be used to install the new hitch.  There will be one existing spacer block on each rail of the hitch.

• This cavity in Fig 24, is behind the mud flap looking up and toward the rear of the vehicle (on each side).

FIG 25:

• Place a jack under the hitch to support it while removing bolts in Fig 26.

FIG 26:

• Remove the four Grade 8 1/2 inch bolts and nuts on each side of the hitch. Discard this hardware.
• Use the 3/4" wrench on the top of the bolts, and 3/4" impact socket and impact driver on the nuts.
• Spacers (1 each side of the hitch) will remain up on the frame rail.

FIG 27 & 28:

• Use the reciprocating saw to cut the old hitch in two pieces.
• The old hitch cannot be removed in one piece without removing the rear cap so it must be cut.
• Place the saw blade between the letters "U" and "R" on the CURT label on the hitch (Fig 27).
• Take extra care to make sure cables are all clear of the cutting area.
• Arrow in Fig 28 pointing to the saw blade on the hitch.
• Use your knee to support the hitch as you saw through it, to keep the blade from binding.

FIG 31:

• New spacer block is made to fit the holes closest together on the new hitch.
• The spacer blocks do NOT install on the hitch; they go up in the frame rail. This picture is just to reference the holes on the hitch versus the holes in the spacer block.
• The old spacer (dashed box) will remain where it was on the frame rail and attach with the bolts farthest apart.
• The new spacer block (from kit) will go end to end with the old spacer block on the frame rail.

FIG 32:

• Place the new spacer blocks from the kit on the frame rail shown in the photo.
• New spacer blocks go on top of the frame rail, and will butt against the spacer that was there in Fig 24.
• This can be a tight fit, so you may have to get a hammer and screwdriver to get them in place.
• Make sure the holes are lined up with the bolt holes through the frame rail.

FIG 33:

• Tap the spacers in place with a hammer so bolts fit through the holes (if necessary).
• You may have to use the floor jack and raise the radiator slightly to help insert the spacers.
• NOTE: This picture is on the passenger side of the vehicle.

FIG 34:

• With the new spacer block in place, use two 2-1/2" bolts (from the kit) and place them from the top down through the spacer block and through the frame rail.
• Since the hitch will now be mounted under the frame rail, the spacer blocks guarantee the bolt lengths remain the same as they were with the old hitch.
• NOTE: This photo is on the passenger side of the vehicle

FIG 35:

• 1/2 x 2-1/2" Grade 8 bolts in place on the driver side of the hitch (as viewed from the rear of the vehicle).
• Second spacer block from the kit has been installed on the frame rail.
• NOTE: This photo is on the driver side. FIG 36:
• Place the new hitch up under the frame rails and line up the holes for the two 1/2 x 2-1/2" Grade 8 bolts.
• Place a nut (from the kit) on each bolt on both sides of the hitch. DO NOT TIGHTEN YET.

FIG 37:

• Make sure the existing spacer from Fig 24 is up on the frame rail, and aligned with the bolt holes.
• The two spacers should butt against each other or at least be lined up with each other on the frame rail.
• USE NEW HARDWARE FROM THE KIT TO REINSTALL THE NEW HITCH.
• Place two new 1/2 x 2-1/4" Grade 8 bolts (from the kit) down through the spacer, through the frame, and through the hitch.
• The rear most of the two holes will have the angle bracket for the mud flap.
• Place a new nut (from the kit) on each bolt.
• Repeat steps 32 through 37 on the other side of the hitch.
• Use the 3/4" wrench on the top of the bolts while you install the 8 bolts with the impact and 3/4" impact socket. DO NOT COMPLETELY TIGHTEN ALL 8 NUTS WITH THE IMPACT GUN.

FIG 38:

• Photo shows driver side of the hitch bolted up with the angle bracket in place for the mud flap.
• ALL EIGHT 1/2X 13 NUTS UNDER THE HITCH MUST BE TORQUED USING A TORQUE WRENCH.
• TORQUE ALL 8 HITCH NUTS TO 74 FT/LBS

FIG 39:

• Re-attach the mud flap with the eye bolts to the angle brackets on each side of the hitch.
• Remember do not turn the nut closest to the "loop" end, only remove the nut on the end of the bolt.
• Use 3/4" ratchet and socket along with the 3/4" wrench to tighten.

FIG 40:

• The double harness (arrow) coming from the front of the RV on the passenger side rear, goes behind the hitch.

FIG 41:

• The harness that splits off the rear harness goes around under the rear harness and down over the back of the hitch.
• One of those harnesses will have the round plug for the 7 pin trailer plug.

FIG 42:

• Re-install the tow brake bracket on the hitch.
• It should be spaced approximately 1-3/8" from the safety chain slot (arrow).
• Re-install the long bolts on the tow brake bracket.
• Use 7/16" socket, 7/16" wrench, and socket adapter for drill.

FIG 44:

• Re-install the air hose coupler (if equipped) (MY2019).
• Re assemble in reverse of steps earlier (Fig 11 & 12).
• Rubber cover "mounting ring" for air coupler attaches on the back side of the bracket Airline coupler should angle down when tightened.
• Re-attach air hose to the coupling (it just pushes back on).
• Re-wrap air hose in the plastic loom.
• Insert the square 7 way plug cover through the tow brake bracket. (Cover should open upward) Re-connect the round plug on the back of the 7 pin trailer plug housing.
• Re-install 4 bolts holding 7 pin cover to the tow brake bracket. (5/16" socket, socket adapter, and screw gun)

FIG 45 & 46:

• Replace the shields back in the opening at the rear of the vehicle.
• Lip of the shields goes to the rear of the vehicle. Angle them in as shown.
• Driver side shield first, then the passenger side. Passenger side is on top in the center. Make sure the harness along the back is not pinched by the back of the shields

FIG 47:

• Replace the TEK screw in the P clamp for the rear harness. (3/8" nutsetter or 3/8" socket) Replace the screw above the driver side back up light.

FIG 48:

• Re-install the screw above the exhaust tip.

FIG 49:

• Reinstall the exhaust tip using the 9/16" impact socket and impact driver.

FIG 50:

• Wire tie the harness back up to the hitch. (4 wire ties)  Trim the wire tie tails.
• None of the wire harnesses should be hanging down below the hitch.
• Discard any old hardware remaining.

VALIDATE THE REPAIR:

• Check airline on the tow brake coupler for leaks.
• Verify 7 pin connector plug hinges upwards to prevent water intrusion.