NHTSA ID Number: 10152428
Manufacturer Communication Number: A12-087
TSB/Document Date: 2019-01-05
Summary
"Service bulletin - American Honda
is extending the warranty coverage on the Piston Rings and Pistons for 2008-11 Accord L4 to 8 years from the original date of purchase or 125,000 miles, whichever comes first. The warranty extension does not apply to any vehicle that has ever been declared a total loss or sold for salvage by a financial institution or insurer, or has a branded, or similar tittle under any state's law."
Use fender covers to avoid damaging painted surfaces.
•
To avoid damaging the wires and terminals, unplug the wiring connectors carefully while holding the connector
portion.
•
To avoid damaging the cylinder head, wait until the engine coolant temperature drops below 100°F (38°C) before
loosening the cylinder head bolts. If needed, connect the HDS to the DLC, and monitor ECT SENSOR 1.
•
Mark all wiring and hoses to avoid misconnection. Also, be sure that they do not contact any other wiring or hoses,
or interfere with any other parts.
Page 4 of 28
1. Make sure that Service Bulletin 11-049, Product Update: Software Update to Improve Fuel Injector and VTC Timing
is complete by checking the iN VIN status.
NOTE
If you do not confirm software update has been completed, your warranty claim could be debited.
2. Put the vehicle on a lift.
3. Relieve the fuel pressure.
4. Do the battery terminal disconnection procedure.
5. Drain the engine oil.
6. Remove the strut brace (if equipped).
7. Drain the engine coolant.
NOTE
Use a clean container to recover coolant for re-use.
8. Remove the drive belt.
9. Remove the intake manifold. Remove the intake manifold bracket lower bolt.
NOTE
It is not necessary to remove the two nuts or the bracket from the intake manifold.
10. Unbolt TWC at the A-Pipe, leaving the TWC mounted to the cylinder head assembly.
11. Disconnect the brake booster vacuum and EVAP canister hoses.
Page 5 of 28
12. Remove the quick-connect fitting cover, then disconnect the fuel feed hose.
13. Disconnect the four fuel injector connectors, the engine mount control solenoid valve connectors, and disconnect
the ground cables.
14. Remove the four bolts securing the EVAP canister purge valve bracket.
Page 6 of 28
15. Disconnect the radiator hoses and the heater hoses. Disconnect the ATF warmer bypass hose (if equipped).
NOTE
The second radiator hose is connected to the thermostat and is not shown.
16. Remove the two bolts securing the connecting pipe. Disconnect the water bypass hose.
Page 7 of 28
17. Remove the front cam chain cover and the cam chain.
18. Use zip ties to hold the intake rocker assemblies together to ease re-installation.
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19. To prevent damage to the camshafts, loosen the bolts, in sequence, two turns at a time. Remove the camshaft
holder bolts, Remove the rocker arm assembly and both cam shafts.
NOTE
Bolt #1 is not on all engines.
20. To prevent warpage, loosen the bolts in sequence 1/3 turn at a time, repeat the sequence until all the bolts are
loosened. Remove the cylinder head bolts.
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21. Remove the cylinder head with the catalytic converter attached.
NOTE
Be careful not to lose the lost-motion springs.
22. Raise the vehicle on the lift.
23. Remove the clutch case cover (M/T) or the torque converter cover (A/T), and remove the two bolts securing the oil
pan to the transmission.
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24. With A/T: Remove the shift cable cover.
25. Remove the bolts securing the oil pan.
26. Using the pan separator, separate the oil pan from the engine block in the indicated areas, and remove the oil pan.
Page 11 of 28
27. To hold the balance shaft, insert a 6 mm (1/4in.) diameter long pin punch into the maintenance hole in the balance
shaft holder and through the rear balancer shaft.
28. Remove the cam chain and oil pump chain auto-tensioner.
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29. Loosen the oil pump sprocket mounting bolt.
30. Remove the oil pump sprocket and the oil pump.
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31. Remove the baffle plate.
32. Lower the vehicle to a comfortable working height, and place a clean shop towel around the cylinder wall to prevent
debris from entering the coolant passage.
33. Cylinder Wall Inspection. If vertical scratches are noted in the cylinder wall, refer to Job Aid Using Cylinder Wall
Inspection Tool and or Tech2Tech "Using Cylinder Wall Inspection Tool".
NOTE
Do not use finger nail or pencil lead to determine if engine block is usable. Always use the cylinder wall inspection
tool to inspect any scratches. Light to moderate scratches that may be detected with your finger nail, but do not
affect the engine, will pass when using the cylinder wall inspection tool.
•
If the engine block is good, go to the next step.
•
If the engine block is no good, replace the engine block. The pistons and rings in the new engine block do not
need to be replaced. This bulletin no longer applies. You must obtain DPSM authorization and refer online to
Engine Removal and Installation to reinstall the engine.
Page 14 of 28
34. Remove the rod caps and the bearings.
NOTES
•
Before removing the rod caps, use a grease pencil or suitable marking pen to mark each cap and its
corresponding connecting rod with the cylinder number it came from.
•
Do not confuse the existing marking on the side of the connecting rod and rod cap with a cylinder number. They
are just manufacturing marks referring to the size of the big end of the rod.
•
Installing a rod cap incorrectly will result in engine knock and/or engine failure. Remove and mark one rod
assembly at a time to make sure it is assembled correctly.
•
When torqueing the rod cap bolts, refer to the service information for details.
•
Click HERE to go to the Tech2Tech® video “Tips When Working with Fracture Rods”.
35. Use a wooden hammer handle to drive out each of the piston and connecting rod assemblies.
NOTE
Be careful not to damage the cylinder walls or the crankshaft when pushing out the pistons and the connecting rod
assemblies.
36. Visually inspect all the connecting rod bearing for signs of damage.
NOTES
•
If your fingernail catches on a scratch or groove in the bearing, replace it. Pictured are normal reusable rod
bearings after about 35,000 miles. Some discoloration is normal and does not require replacement.
•
If the bearings look like they must be replaced, contact your DPSM for authorization.
Page 15 of 28
37. Measure the diameter of each connecting rod bolt at points A and B.
37.1. Calculate the difference in diameter between points A and B:
•
Point A – Point B = Difference in Diameter
•
Difference in Diameter Specification: 0 - 0.1 mm (0.004 in.)
•
If the difference in diameter is out of specification, replace the connecting rod bolt.
38. Put on eye protection, then remove the snap rings from both sides of each piston. Start at the cutout in the piston
pin bore. Remove the snap rings carefully so they don’t go flying or get lost.
39. Put on gloves, heat the piston and the small end of the connecting rod to about 158°F (70°C), then remove the
piston pin.
NOTE
The old piston, the pin, and the snap rings won’t be reused.
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40. Install a new piston pin snap ring on one side of a new piston.
41. Coat the piston pin bore in the piston, the bore in the connecting rod, and the piston pin with new engine oil.
42. Heat the piston to about 158°F (70°C).
43. Assemble the piston and the connecting rod with the arrow and the embossed mark on the same side. Install the
piston pin.
NOTE
When the piston and the rod end are heated properly, the piston pin should slide into position relatively easily. You
will damage the piston if you try to use a hammer or a press to force the piston pin in.
44. Install the remaining snap ring.
Page 17 of 28
45. Turn the snap ring in the ring grooves until the end gaps are positioned at the bottom of the piston.
46. Repeat steps 38 through 45 for the remaining pistons.
47. Using a piston ring expander, install the spacer and two oil rings. Then install the second ring and top ring with the
manufacturing marks facing up. The second ring has a “2” followed by a letter or letters. The top ring has a “1”
followed by a letter or letters.
NOTE
The new rings may not have the same manufacturing marks as the originals.
48. Rotate the rings in their grooves to make sure they do not bind.
49. Position the ring end gaps as shown.
50. Rotate the crankshaft so that cylinders 1 and 4 are at bottom dead center (BDC).
51. Remove the connecting rod cap to piston 1, and check that the bearing is securely in place.
Page 18 of 28
52. Apply new engine oil to the piston, the inside of the ring compressor, the cylinder bore, and the rod bearings.
NOTE
Cylinder wall honing is NOT required for this repair.
53. Position the mark to face the cam chain end of the engine block.
54. Set the piston in the ring compressor, and position the piston in the cylinder based on the rod/cap marks that you
made in step 34.
55. Set the ring compressor on the piston bore, then push the piston in with your hands.
Page 19 of 28
56. Stop after the ring compressor pops free, and check the connecting rod-to-rod journal alignment before pushing the
piston into place.
57. Apply new engine oil to the bolt threads, then install the connecting rod cap with the bearing. Torque the bolts to 41
N·m (30 lb-ft).
58. Tighten the connecting rod bolts an additional 120°.
NOTE
If you tighten a rod bolt beyond the specified angle, remove it and repeat steps 57 and 58. Do not loosen the bolt
back to the specified angle.
59. Repeat steps 47 through 58 for piston number 4.
60. Rotate the crankshaft so that cylinders 2 and 3 are at bottom dead center (BDC).
61. Repeat steps 47 through 58 for piston number 2 and 3.
62. Rotate the crankshaft several times after all connecting rods have been installed to ensure that nothing is binding.
63. Install the baffle plate, and torque the bolts to 12 N·m (8.7 lb-ft).
64. Set the crankshaft to top dead center (TDC). Align the TDC mark on the crankshaft sprocket with the pointer on the
engine block.
65. Apply new engine oil to the threads of the oil pump mounting bolts and the oil pump sprocket mounting bolt, then
loosely install the oil pump with a new O-ring.
Page 20 of 28
66. Torque the oil pump mounting bolts and the oil pump sprocket mounting bolt according to figure shown.
67. Align the dowel pin on the rear balancer shaft with the mark on the oil pump.
68. Install the oil pump chain on the crankshaft sprocket with the colored link plate aligned with the TDC mark on the
crankshaft sprocket.
Page 21 of 28
69. Set the oil pump sprocket on the oil pump chain with the punch mark aligned with the center of the colored link
plates, then install the oil pump chain sprocket to the oil pump.
Apply new engine oil to the threads of the oil pump sprocket mounting bolt, then install it and torque it to 44 N·m (33
lb-ft).
70. Install the oil pump chain auto-tensioner, and torque the bolts to 12 N·m (8.7 lb-ft).
71. Remove the 6 mm (1/4 in.) diameter long pin punch.
72. Remove the 3.0 mm pin from the oil pump chain auto-tensioner.
73. Remove all of the old liquid gasket from the oil pan mating surfaces, the bolts, and the bolt holes.
74. Clean and dry the oil pan mating surfaces.
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75. Apply liquid gasket, P/N 08718-0004 to the engine block mating surface of the oil pan and to the inside edge of the
threaded bolt holes. Install the component within 5 minutes of applying the liquid gasket.
NOTES
•
Apply a 2.5 mm (0.098 in) diameter bead of liquid gasket along the broken line.
•
If more than 5 minutes have passed after applying the liquid gasket, remove the old liquid gasket and residue,
then reapply new liquid gasket.
•
Do not apply any sealant where the cam chain case is installed because the sealant will dry before you can
reinstall the case.
76. Install the oil pan to the engine block.
77. Tighten the bolts in three steps. In the final step, torque all bolts, in sequence, to 12 N·m (9 lb-ft).
NOTES
•
Wait at least 30 minutes after installing the cam chain case before filling the engine with oil.
•
Do not run the engine for at least 3 hours after installing the oil pan.
78. Install a new oil filter.
79. Reinstall the clutch case cover and torque the bolts to 12 N·m (8.7 lb-ft). Reinstall the two bolts securing the oil pan
to the transmission and torque them to 64 N·m (47 lb-ft).
80. With A/T: Reinstall the shift cable cover, and torque the bolts to 12 N·m (9.0 lb-ft).
Page 23 of 28
81. Reinstall the cylinder head with a new gasket.
•
Measure the diameter of each cylinder head bolt at point A and point B.
•
If either diameter is less than 10.8 mm (0.417 in), replace the cylinder head bolt.
•
Apply new engine oil to the threads and under the bolt heads of all cylinder head bolts.
•
Torque the cylinder head bolts in sequence to 39 N·m (29 lb-ft). When using a preset click-type torque wrench,
be sure to tighten slowly and do not overtighten. If a bolt makes any noise while you are torquing it, loosen the
bolt and retighten it from the first step.
•
After torqueing, tighten all cylinder head bolts in two steps (90° per step) using the sequence shown above. If
you are using a new cylinder head bolt, tighten the bolt an extra 90°.
NOTE
Remove the cylinder head bolt if you tightened it beyond the specified angle, and go back to the second bullet to
re-measure the bolt. Do not loosen it back to the specified angle.
Page 24 of 28
82. Reinstall the rocker arm assembly and the camshafts.
83. Reinstall the cam chain.
84. Apply liquid gasket to the oil pan where it meets the cam chain case and to the inside edge of the threaded bolt
holes. Install the cam chain case within 5 minutes of applying the liquid gasket.
85. Install the cam chain cover.
86. Reinstall crank pulley and torque the bolt to 49 N·m (36 ft-lb).
Page 25 of 28
87. Adjust the valve clearance. Refer to the service manual for Valve Clearance Adjustment.
Valve Clearance:
Intake: 0.21 – 0.25 mm (0.0083 – 0.0098 in)
Exhaust: 0.25 – 0.29 mm (0.0098 – 0.0114 in)
Specified Torque (Intake & Exhaust)
7 x 0.75 mm: 14 N·m (1.4 kgf·m, 10 lbf·ft)
Apply new engine oil to the nut threads.
88. Reinstall or reconnect the following components:
•
Reinstall the cylinder head cover.
•
Reinstall the coolant connecting pipe.
•
Reinstall the upper radiator hose, the heater hoses, and the water bypass hose.
•
Reinstall the EVAP canister purge valve bracket.
•
Reconnect the four fuel injectors, the engine mount control solenoid connector, and the ground cables.
•
Reconnect the fuel feed hose and the quick connect fitting cover.
•
Reconnect the EVAP canister hose.
89. Install a new gasket from TWC to A-pipe.
90. Install the intake manifold using new gaskets.
91. Reinstall the drive belt.
92. Fill the engine with coolant using recovered coolant. Add new as needed.
93. Reinstall the strut brace (if equipped), and torque the bolts to 22 N·m (16 lb-ft).
94. Fill the engine with oil.
Page 26 of 28
95. Reinstall right side engine mount.
96. Do the battery terminal reconnection procedure.
97. Crank the engine for about 5 seconds to prime the engine with oil pressure before plugging in the ignition coils.
98. Reconnect the four ignition coils.
99. Do the idle learn procedure.
Page 27 of 28
ORDERING PISTONS
Every engine has some combination of A- and B-sized pistons. You can determine the sizes and their locations in the
block by inspecting the markings on the timing chain end of the engine block or by looking at the pistons. If you look at
the piston, the pistons have identifiers; “A” pistons are unmarked; “B” pistons are marked with a “B”. Make sure you
order the appropriate number of each piston size before starting work.
END
Page 28 of 28
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TSB/Document ID: A12-087
Replacement Service Bulletin Number:
MFR Communication Date: 2018-12-19
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Communication Type: Service Bulletin/Repair Instructions
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