4. Clamp (Hold the rear wheel rotation sensor lead.)
5. Clamp (Hold the rear brake hose.)
6. Clamp (Hold the rear brake hose.)
7. Clamps (Hold the rear brake hose and rear wheel rotation sensor lead.)
8. Clamp (Hold the rear wheel rotation sensor lead.)
9. Clamp (Hold the rear wheel rotation sensor lead.)
10. Rear Wheel Rotation Sensor
11. About 9°
12. About 3°

17-42 APPENDIX
Cable, Wire, and Hose Routing

1. Brake Pipes
2. Clamp (Hold the brake pipes.)
3. Clamp (Hold the brake pipe.)
4. Run the brake hoses under the other leads.
5. Brake Hoses

APPENDIX 17-43
Cable, Wire, and Hose Routing
Other than US and CA Models

1. Breather Hose
2. Purge Hose (to Canister)
3. Install the clamps so that their tabs face outward of the motorcycle.
4. Canister
5. Purge Valve
6. Purge Hose
7. Purge Valve Lead
8. Run the purge hose to the inside of the purge valve lead and the radiator overflow hose.
9. Radiator Overflow Hose
10. Run the purge hose above the radiator cap housing mounting bolt.
11. Clamp (Hold the purge hose (to canister).)

17-44 APPENDIX
Troubleshooting Guide
NOTE

○Refer to the Fuel System chapter for most
of DFI trouble shooting guide.
○This is not an exhaustive list, giving every
possible cause for each problem listed. It
is meant simply as a rough guide to assist
the troubleshooting for some of the more
common difficulties.
Engine Doesn’t Start, Starting
Difficulty:
Starter motor not rotating:
Ignition and engine stop switch not on
Starter lockout switch or gear position sensor trouble
Starter motor trouble
Battery voltage low
Starter relay not contacting or operating
Starter button not contacting
Starter system wiring shorted or open
Ignition switch trouble
Engine stop switch trouble
Main 30 A or ignition fuse blown
Starter motor rotating but engine doesn’t
turn over:
Vehicle-down sensor (DFI) coming off
Immobilizer system trouble (Equipped Models)
Starter clutch trouble
Starter idle gear trouble
Engine won’t turn over:
Valve seizure
Valve lifter seizure
Cylinder, piston seizure
Crankshaft seizure
Connecting rod small end seizure
Connecting rod big end seizure
Transmission gear or bearing seizure
Camshaft seizure
Starter idle gear seizure
Balancer bearing seizure
No fuel flow:
No fuel in tank
Fuel pump trouble
Fuel tank air vent obstructed
Fuel filter clogged
Fuel line clogged
No spark; spark weak:
Vehicle-down sensor (DFI) coming off
Ignition switch not on
Engine stop switch turned to stop position
Clutch lever not pulled in or gear not in neutral
Battery voltage low
Immobilizer system trouble (Equipped Models)

Spark plug dirty, broken, or gap maladjusted
Spark plug incorrect
Stick coil shorted or not in good contact
Stick coil trouble
ECU trouble
Gear position sensor, starter lockout, or
side stand switch trouble
Crankshaft sensor trouble
Ignition switch or engine stop switch
shorted
Starter system wiring shorted or open
Main 30 A or ignition fuse blown
Fuel/air mixture incorrect:
Bypass screw maladjusted
Air passage clogged
Air cleaner clogged, poorly sealed, or missing
Leak from oil filler cap, crankcase breather
hose or air cleaner drain hose.
Compression Low:
Spark plug loose
Cylinder head not sufficiently tightened
down
Cylinder, piston worn
Piston ring bad (worn, weak, broken, or
sticking)
Piston ring/groove clearance excessive
Cylinder head gasket damaged
Cylinder head warped
Valve spring broken or weak
No valve clearance
Valve not seating properly (valve bent,
worn, or carbon accumulation on the
seating surface)

Poor Running at Low Speed:
Spark weak:
Battery voltage low
Immobilizer system trouble (Equipped Models)
Stick coil trouble
Stick coil shorted or not in good contact
Spark plug dirty, broken, or maladjusted
Spark plug incorrect
ECU trouble
Crankshaft sensor trouble
Fuel/air mixture incorrect:
Bypass screw maladjusted
Air passage clogged
Air bleed pipe bleed holes clogged
Pilot passage clogged
Air cleaner clogged, poorly sealed, or missing
Fuel tank air vent obstructed
Fuel pump trouble
Fuel to injector insufficient

APPENDIX 17-45
Troubleshooting Guide
Fuel line clogged
Throttle body assy holder loose
Air cleaner housing holder loose
Compression low:
Spark plug loose
Cylinder head not sufficiently tightened
down
No valve clearance
Cylinder, piston worn
Piston ring bad (worn, weak, broken, or
sticking)
Piston ring/groove clearance excessive
Cylinder head gasket damaged
Cylinder head warped
Valve spring broken or weak
Valve not seating properly (valve bent,
worn, or carbon accumulation on the
seating surface)
Camshaft cam worm
Run-on (dieseling):
Ignition switch trouble
Engine stop switch trouble
Fuel injector trouble
Carbon accumulating on valve seating surface
Engine overheating
Other:
ECU trouble
Throttle body assy not synchronizing
Engine oil viscosity too high
Drive train trouble
Brake dragging
Clutch slipping
Engine overheating
Air suction valve trouble
Air switching valve trouble

Poor Running or No Power at High
Speed:
Firing incorrect:
Spark plug dirty, broken, or maladjusted
Spark plug incorrect
Stick coil shorted or not in good contact
trouble
Stick coil trouble
ECU trouble
Fuel/air mixture incorrect:
Air cleaner clogged, poorly sealed, or missing
Air cleaner housing holder loose
Water or foreign matter in fuel
Throttle body assy holder loose
Fuel to injector insufficient
Fuel tank air vent obstructed
Fuel line clogged
Fuel pump trouble

Compression low:
Spark plug loose
Cylinder head not sufficiently tightened
down
No valve clearance
Cylinder, piston worn
Piston ring bad (worn, weak, broken, or
sticking)
Piston ring/groove clearance excessive
Cylinder head gasket damaged
Cylinder head warped
Valve spring broken or weak
Valve not seating properly (valve bent,
worn, or carbon accumulation on the
seating surface.)
Knocking:
Carbon built up in combustion chamber
Fuel poor quality or incorrect
Spark plug incorrect
ECU trouble
Miscellaneous:
Throttle valve won’t fully open
Brake dragging
Clutch slipping
Engine overheating
Engine oil level too high
Engine oil viscosity too high
Drive train trouble
Camshaft cam worm
Air suction valve trouble
Air switching valve trouble
Catalytic converter melt down due to muffler
overheating (KLEEN)

Overheating:
Firing incorrect:
Spark plug dirty, broken, or maladjusted
Spark plug incorrect
ECU trouble
Muffler overheating:
For KLEEN, do not run the engine even if
with only one cylinder misfiring or poor
running (Request the nearest service facility to correct it)
For KLEEN, do not push-start with a dead
battery (Connect another full-charged
battery with jumper cables, and start the
engine using the electric starter)
For KLEEN, do not start the engine under
misfire due to spark plug fouling or poor
connection of the stick coil
For KLEEN, do not coast the motorcycle
with the ignition switch off (Turn the ignition switch on and run the engine)
ECU trouble
Fuel/air mixture incorrect:
Throttle body assy holder loose

17-46 APPENDIX
Troubleshooting Guide
Air cleaner housing holder loose
Air cleaner poorly sealed, or missing
Air cleaner clogged
Compression high:
Carbon built up in combustion chamber
Engine load faulty:
Clutch slipping
Engine oil level too high
Engine oil viscosity too high
Drive train trouble
Brake dragging
Lubrication inadequate:
Engine oil level too low
Engine oil poor quality or incorrect
Oil cooler incorrect:
Oil cooler clogged
Gauge incorrect:
Water temperature gauge broken
Water temperature sensor broken
Coolant incorrect:
Coolant level too low
Coolant deteriorated
Wrong coolant mixed ratio
Cooling system component incorrect:
Radiator fin damaged
Radiator clogged
Thermostat trouble
Radiator cap trouble
Radiator fan relay trouble
Fan motor broken
Fan blade damaged
Water pump not turning
Water pump impeller damaged

Over Cooling:
Gauge incorrect:
Water temperature gauge broken
Water temperature sensor broken
Cooling system component incorrect:
Thermostat trouble

Clutch Operation Faulty:
Clutch slipping:
Friction plate worn or warped
Steel plate worn or warped
Clutch spring broken or weak
Clutch hub or housing unevenly worn
No clutch lever play
Clutch inner cable trouble
Clutch release mechanism trouble
Clutch not disengaging properly:
Clutch plate warped or too rough
Clutch spring compression uneven
Engine oil deteriorated
Engine oil viscosity too high
Engine oil level too high
Clutch housing frozen on drive shaft

Clutch hub nut loose
Clutch hub spline damaged
Clutch friction plate installed wrong
Clutch lever play excessive
Clutch release mechanism trouble

Gear Shifting Faulty:
Doesn’t go into gear; shift pedal doesn’t
return:
Clutch not disengaging
Shift fork bent or seized
Gear stuck on the shaft
Gear positioning lever binding
Shift return spring weak or broken
Shift return spring pin loose
Shift mechanism arm spring broken
Shift mechanism arm broken
Shift pawl broken
Jumps out of gear:
Shift fork ear worn, bent
Gear groove worn
Gear dogs and/or dog holes worn
Shift drum groove worn
Gear positioning lever spring weak or broken
Shift fork guide pin worn
Drive shaft, output shaft, and/or gear
splines worn
Overshifts:
Gear positioning lever spring weak or broken
Shift mechanism arm spring broken

Abnormal Engine Noise:
Knocking:
ECU trouble
Carbon built up in combustion chamber
Fuel poor quality or incorrect
Spark plug incorrect
Overheating
Piston slap:
Cylinder/piston clearance excessive
Cylinder, piston worn
Connecting rod bent
Piston pin, piston pin hole worn
Valve noise:
Valve clearance incorrect
Valve spring broken or weak
Camshaft bearing worn
Valve lifter worn
Other noise:
Connecting rod small end clearance excessive
Connecting rod big end clearance excessive
Piston ring/groove clearance excessive
Piston ring worn, broken, or stuck

APPENDIX 17-47
Troubleshooting Guide
Piston ring groove worn
Piston seizure, damage
Cylinder head gasket leaking
Exhaust pipe leaking at cylinder head connection
Crankshaft runout excessive
Engine mount loose
Crankshaft bearing worn
Primary gear worn or chipped
Camshaft chain tensioner trouble
Camshaft chain, sprocket, guide worn
Air suction valve damaged
Air switching valve damaged
Alternator rotor loose
Catalytic converter melt down due to muffler
overheating (KLEEN)
Balancer gear worn or chipped
Balancer shaft position maladjusted
Balancer bearing worn
Balancer rubber damper damaged

Abnormal Drive Train Noise:
Clutch noise:
Clutch damper weak or damaged
Clutch housing/friction plate clearance excessive
Clutch housing gear worn
Wrong installation of outside friction plate
Transmission noise:
Bearings worn
Transmission gear worn or chipped
Metal chips jammed in gear teeth
Engine oil insufficient
Drive line noise:
Drive chain adjusted improperly
Drive chain worn
Rear and/or engine sprocket worn
Chain lubrication insufficient
Rear wheel misaligned

Abnormal Frame Noise:
Front fork noise:
Oil insufficient or too thin
Spring weak or broken
Rear shock absorber noise:
Shock absorber damaged
Disc brake noise:
Pad installed incorrectly
Pad surface glazed
Disc warped
Caliper trouble
Other noise:
Bracket, nut, bolt, etc.
not properly
mounted or tightened

Warning Indicator (LED) (Oil
Pressure Warning) Doesn’t Go OFF:
Engine oil pump damaged
Engine oil screen clogged
Engine oil filter clogged
Engine oil level too low
Engine oil viscosity too low
Camshaft bearing worn
Crankshaft bearing worn
Oil pressure switch damaged
Wiring faulty
Relief valve stuck open
O-ring at the oil passage in the crankcase
damaged

Exhaust Smokes Excessively:
White smoke:
Piston oil ring worn
Cylinder worn
Valve oil seal damaged
Valve guide worn
Engine oil level too high
Black smoke:
Air cleaner clogged
Brown smoke:
Air cleaner housing holder loose
Air cleaner poorly sealed or missing

Handling and/or Stability
Unsatisfactory:
Handlebars hard to turn:
Cable routing incorrect
Hose routing incorrect
Wiring routing incorrect
Steering stem nut too tight
Steering stem bearing damaged
Steering stem bearing lubrication inadequate
Steering stem bent
Tire air pressure too low
Handlebars shakes or excessively
vibrates:
Tire worn
Swingarm pivot bearing worn
Rim warped, or not balanced
Wheel bearing worn
Handlebar holder clamp bolt loose
Steering stem nut loose
Front, rear axle runout excessive
Engine mounting bolt loose
Handlebars pulls to one side:
Frame bent
Wheel misalignment
Swingarm bent or twisted
Swingarm pivot shaft runout excessive
Steering maladjusted
Front fork bent

17-48 APPENDIX
Troubleshooting Guide
Right and left front fork oil level uneven
Shock absorption unsatisfactory:
(Too hard)
Front fork oil excessive
Front fork oil viscosity too high
Rear shock absorber adjustment too hard
Tire air pressure too high
Front fork bent
(Too soft)
Tire air pressure too low
Front fork oil insufficient and/or leaking
Front fork oil viscosity too low
Rear shock adjustment too soft
Front fork, rear shock absorber spring weak
Rear shock absorber oil leaking

Brake Doesn’t Hold:
Air in the brake line
Pad or disc worn
Brake fluid leakage
Disc warped

Contaminated pad
Brake fluid deteriorated
Primary or secondary cup damaged in master
cylinder
Master cylinder scratched inside

Battery Trouble:
Battery discharged:
Charge insufficient
Battery faulty (too low terminal voltage)
Battery cable making poor contact
Load excessive (e.g., bulb of excessive
wattage)
Ignition switch trouble
Alternator trouble
Wiring faulty
Regulator/rectifier trouble
Battery overcharged:
Alternator trouble
Regulator/rectifier trouble
Battery faulty

Part No.99924-1519-01

MODEL APPLICATION
Year

Model

2017

ZX1000WH

Beginning Frame No.
JKAZXCW1□HA000001
JKAZXT00WWA000001

□:This digit in the frame number changes from one machine to another.