SLIDE TO REMOVE

SLIDE
CORNER

SLIDEOUT
COLUMN

Figure 32

Figure 33

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34. Once the fasteners are removed, remove the slide corners. You may have to pry the corners off the slide box
(Figure 34). Note - if they are damaged during removal, replace them (replacements provided in initial parts
shipment - P/N 105066).
35. Once the slide corners are removed, use a razor knife to cut the seam between the between the floor seal and
the wall (Figure 35).
PRY TOOL
RAZOR
KNIFE

SLIDE
CORNER

Figure 34

Figure 35

36. Using a screw gun and a #2 square drive bit, remove the fasteners that hold the slide-out floor to the slide-out
sidewalls (Figure 36).
37. Remove the screws holding the slide-out floor to the outside slide-out wall (Figure 37). NOTE that these
screws may be hidden under seam tape (Eterna-Bond tape - P/N 102405 - replacement tape supplied).

Figure 36

Figure 37

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38. Use wire cutters to cut the securing zip tie and remove the wire clamps for the under slide lights (Figure 38a)
and disconnect the wires (Figure 38b).

Figure 38a

Figure 38b

39. Push the lights out of the floor and remove the grommets through the holes they are mounted in (Figure
39a). Retain lights and grommets for re-installation in new floor (Figure 39b). Remove and discard the
original floor.

Figure 39a

Figure 39b

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40. Lay new slide-out floor on supports with the interior side facing up. Lay pink insulation (P/N 101851)
over the floor and cut about an inch longer than the room. Peel the backing off of the adhesive on the pink
insulation and flip the insulation so the adhesive side is down (Figure 40).
41. Apply insulation to the floor and trim to fit (Figure 41).

Figure 40

Figure 41

42. Flip the floor over. Measure out the hole centers for the under slide lights (6” in from the outside face edge of
the floor and 18 ¼” in from the side edge of the floor) (Figure 42).
43. Use a power drill and a 3/8” spade drill bit to drill the holes for the LED lights (Figure 43).

Figure 42

Figure 43

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44. Lift the new floor and set into place against the bottom of the slide room walls. The holes for the lights
should be near the outside face of the slide room and the pink insulation should be facing the ceiling of the
slide room (Figure 44).
45. Line up the bottom corners of the floor with the slide room walls first (Figure 45).
NEW FLOOR

LED LIGHT
HOLE

LED LIGHT
HOLE

ALIGN
CORNERS

Figure 44

Figure 45

46. Using a screw gun with a #2 bit, secure the bottom corners of the room to the floor with one (1) 14 X 1.5
ZINC (P/N 100883) screw in each outside corner (Figure 46).
47. Align the walls with the floor and ensure the slide room remains in square. Secure the other two corners of
the room with one (1) 14 X 1.5 ZINC (P/N 100883 - NOT provided) screw in each corner, then secure the
rest of the wall using at least four (4) of the same 14 X 1.5 ZINC screws per wall.

Figure 46

Figure 47
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48. Once the side walls are secure, align the outside
wall and hold the removed T-Molding in place
and mark the screw locations in the T-Molding.
This will prevent from screwing the T-molding
into an already existing screw from the floor (NOT
shown).
49. Using a screw gun with a #2 square drive bit,
attach the floor to the outside wall with eight (8)
10 X 3 screws (P/N 100880) (Figure 48). There
should be a minimum of 8 screws through the
floor into the outside wall.

OLD
SEALANT

50. Using an oscillating multi tool with a chisel blade
(or equivalent), remove any old sealant along the
floor line of the slide-out (Figure 49).

Figure 48

Figure 49

51. Place Eternabond seal strips (P/N 102489 ) over the side wall to floor corners of the slide room. Trim them
around the T-molding. Make sure the strips completely cover the screw heads for the floor (Figures 50a and
50b).

ETERNABOND
SEAL STRIPS

Figure 50a

Figure 50b
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52. The new floor will extend about 2 inches beyond the original wall lines. Mark the area to be notched out
(Figure 51).
53. Use a reciprocating saw to notch the floor at the wall line (Figure 52).

Figure 52

Figure 51
SLIDE-OUT OPENING ROLLER MODIFICATIONS

54. Use a screw gun with a #2 square drive bit to remove the original wall mounted slide-out rollers (Figure 53).
55. The first roller is placed 5” in from the left hand side of the opening. Measure and mark the cleat at 5” from
the wall opening and cut the top panel at that mark (Figure 54).

Figure 53

CUT CLEAT
AT 5” MARK

Figure 54

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56. Use a knife to cut the silicone seal around the floor/wall cover panels, then pry the panels carefully apart to
be able to reinstall (Figure 55a and 55b).

Figure 55a

Figure 55b

57. Install the chassis tube extension (P/N 111820) into the end of the chassis tube with four (4) 3/8” self tapping
screws (P/N 101332). The bracket should be oriented as shown and align with the steel frame rail at the end
(Figure 56a and 56b).

Figure 56a

Figure 56b

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58. Place the new roller bracket on the metal frame rail. The first roller is to be mounted 5” from the vertical
edge of the slide-out opening (Figure 57). Use the bracket as a template and use a power drill with a 1/4” drill
bit to mark the mounting hole locations on the frame rail.
59. Remove the roller bracket and complete the pre-drilling of the marked holes (Figure 58).

5”

Figure 58

Figure 57

60. Install the first roller on the far left side of the slide-out opening (viewed from inside). Place the roller onto
the rail over the pre-drilled holes. Insert a shim (P/N 111048) under the left side of the roller bracket (Figure
59) to bring the left side even with the right side on the rail.
61. Use four (4) 3/8” self tapping screws (P/N 101332) to attach the roller bracket to the metal frame rail (Figure
60).
SHIM

ROLLER
BRACKET
FASTENERS

RAIL EXTENSION

Figure 59

FASTENERS

Figure 60

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62. Inspect to make sure the roller is level with the slide-out opening (Figure 61).
63. If the roller needs vertical adjustment, use a 1/2” open end wrench to turn the adjustment bolt in the slideout roller bracket to raise or lower the roller height (Figure 62).

ADJUSTMENT
BOLT

Figure 61

Figure 62

64. Once the roller height is set, use a screw gun with a 3/8” socket to install two (2) 3/8” self tapping fasteners
(P/N 101332) to secure the slide-out roller bracket to the wall (Figure 63).
65. Measure from the vertical edge of the first slide-out roller 16”. Place the next slide-out roller at this mark
(Figure 64).

16”

ROLLER 2

ROLLER 1

Figure 63

Figure 64

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66. Use the bracket as a template and use a power drill with a 1/4” drill bit to mark the mounting hole locations
on the frame rail (Figure 65). Remove roller bracket and pre-drill the holes (Figure 65).
67. Using a screw gun and a 3/8” socket, install the second roller using four (4) 3/8” self tapping fasteners (P/N
101332) and adjust height as necessary (Figure 66) as was done with the first slide-out roller bracket.

Figure 65

Figure 66

68. Install and adjust remaining two (2) rollers as set forth in the process above, for a total of four (4) slide-out
rollers in the bedroom. Note the spacing on the additional rollers (Figure 67).

5”

16”

16”

5”

Figure 67
69. Route and secure wiring with zip-ties, and reinstall trim panels to cover the wiring as shown (see Figure 67
above).

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FRONT CAP REMOVAL
1. Using a razor knife, score along both sides of the snap-on trim all the way around the cap and remove the
sealant (Figure 68).
2. Using a screw gun with a #2 square drive bit, remove the screws from the ends and corners of the snap-on
trim , then peel the trim away from the retainer all the way around the front cap (Figure 69).

Figure 68

Figure 69

3. Using a screw gun and a #2 square drive bit, remove the screws from the pinbox shroud (Figure 70a and
70b). Note that some screws may require a 90° adapter to access (Figure 70b).
90° ADAPTER

Figure 70a

Figure 70b

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4. Remove both pieces of the pinbox shroud and set aside safely (Figure 71).
5. Support the cap with a forklift that is padded to protect the cap (Figure 72).

Figure 71

Figure 72

6. Pry around the edges of the cap to loosen the sealant and separate the cap from the side walls and roof
Figures 73a, 73b, 73c and 73d). Check for hidden screws under the sealant.

Figure 73a

Figure 73b

Figure 73c

Figure 73d
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7. Pull cap back and disconnect the lighting wiring from the cap (Figure 74a and 74b).
8. Set cap safely aside and protect it for re-installation (not shown).

Figure 74a

Figure 74b

SIDEWALL FIBERGLASS SKIN REMOVAL
1. Use a screw gun with a #2 square drive bit and prying tools to remove the fasteners and peel off the rubber
drip rail trim along the roof line to the back of the kitchen slideout (Figure 75).
2. Using prying tools, remove the drip rail j-channel from the roof line (Figure 76 and 77).

Figure 76

Figure 75

Figure 77
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3. Use a screwgun and #2 square drive bit to remove the ladder bracket and exterior light from the side wall
(Figure 78a and 78b).
LADDER
BRACKET

EXTERIOR
LIGHT

Figure 78a

Figure 78b

4. Remove all of the baggage doors and water heater covers from the side wall. The doors are held in place with
#2 square drive fasteners: NOTE that some of the fasteners are hidden under weatherstrips and trim
(Figure 79a, 79b, 79c and 79d).

Figure 79b

Figure 79a

Figure 79c

Figure 79d
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5. Using a screw gun and a #2 square drive bit, remove the skirting along the lower side wall of the unit up to
the kitchen slideout (Figure 80). Some prying may be required to remove the skirting.
6. Peel back the edge of the rubber roofing that hangs over the edge of the side wall (Figure 81). Use a plastic
prying device (like a Polystick) that will not puncture or otherwise damage the roofing material.

Figure 80

Figure 81

7. Create a template from scrap fiberglass, plywood, or cardboard to aid in uniform cuts to the existing
fiberglass skin. Cut the narrow end at a radius to help with alignment and seam repair when the new
fiberglass skin is installed. Use the template and a grease pencil to mark the cut line for the fiberglass above
the kitchen slideout (Figure 82a and 82b).

30”

32”

6”
Figure 82a

TEMPLATE
TEMPLATE

Figure 82b

NOTE: Sample measurements are approximate, but
work with most floorplans.

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+ NOTICE
In the following steps, cut ONLY the fiberglass sidewall. DO NOT cut foam, structure or aluminum supports as
this may lead to structural damage. There are metal structural components, and sometimes wiring in this area.
Cutting deeper than the fiberglass risks damaging anything behind it.

8. Once the fiberglass is marked, use a hand held pneumatic saw to cut the fiberglass along the curved mark
(Figure 83a and 83b). NOTE: Cut ONLY the fiberglass - DO NOT cut any structure or support.

Figure 83a

Figure 83b

9. Using prying tools, separate the fiberglass exterior from the aluminum and foam structure (Figure 84a, 84b,
84c, and 84d). Safely pry and pull the exterior fiberglass off of the aluminum frame structure as necessary.

Figure 84a

Figure 84b

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Figure 84c

Figure 84d

10. The fiberglass is backed with an azdel material which may separate from the fiberglass and stick to the
structure. Once all of the fiberglass has been removed, use a putty knife, oscillating multi-tool or a grinder
to REMOVE ALL of the azdel and any residual adhesive from the aluminum wall structure (Figure 85a and
85b).
AZDEL
AZDEL

OSCILLATING
MULTI-TOOL

Figure 85a

Figure 85b

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SIDEWALL STRUCTURE MODIFICATIONS

CAUTION
CAUTION: WEAR PROTECTIVE EQUIPMENT while welding. Burn injury from weld spatter, and blindness
can occur from looking at the weld in progress without proper protective equipment. NEVER stare into or
look directly at the sparks and/or weld without a welding mask that protects eyes and skin. Wear a protective
sleeve to cover clothing and skin. Failure to heed these guidelines can result in serious injury, blindness, or
death!

CAUTION
CAUTION: Install a cover on the slide-out opening into the bedroom, as well as the openings for the storage
doors. Remove anything flammable or explosive from the storage compartments, and cover those as well
during the welding process. This protects these areas from damage/weld spatter while the sidewall structure
is being modified. Failure to do so may cause potential damage or fire to these areas, resulting in property
damage and possible personal injury.

1. Mark the sidewall structure for additional 2” x 6” bracing. Starting at the edge of the kitchen slideout,
measure as indicated on the attached prints and mark the foam insulation for installation of braces. Vertical
braces are typically installed on 48” centers. NOTE on the prints that RED means ADD this reinforcement,
YELLOW means ADD IF NOT ALREADY THERE (Figure 86 - this is an example structural modifications actual prints are attached to the end of this document).

Figure 86

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2. Use a magic marker pen (or equivalent) and a 2” x 6” aluminum brace tube to lay out the modifications to
the sidewall (Figure 87).
3. Once the vertical, horizontal and diagonal structure bracing marks are layed out on the sidewall structure,
use a razor knife to cut along the lines, then use a 6” putty knife to chisel the styrofoam out for installation of
the braces (Figure 88a and 88b).

Figure 87

Figure 88a

4. Cut the styrofoam out of the each corner and joint where the original structure was built. Inspect for broken
welds (Figure 89). Inspect ALL original welds on the exposed sidewall and mark for repair as needed.
INSPECT
WELDS

Figure 88b

Figure 89

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5. Cut the 2” x 6” braces to size for each opening and test fit (Figure 90).
6. Install the bracing in the sidewall using Chem X adhesive (P/N 100650) (Figure 91).

Figure 90

Figure 91

7. Tape the braces in place to hold them while the Chem X sets typically overnight unless the brace is welded in
shortly after application (Figure 91).
8. Cover any openings and finished surfaces with a weld blanket to prevent weld spatter from causing damage
(Figures 92a and 92b).

WELD
BLANKET

Figure 91

Figure 92a
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9. Lift the unit by the pinbox using tripod or forklift BEFORE welding begins(Figure 93a).