Keystone RV

KSB-210122 V2

1/17/2024

Keystone Fifth Wheel – Sidewall Crack Repair
Please watch this video prior to performing this repair.
https://youtu.be/ZzrpwGgAojs
The information and instructions in a Keystone Service Bulletin (KSB) are intended to inform RV
dealership Service Managers/Technicians of situations that may occur with some Recreational vehicles
so dealership personnel can perform proper and efficient service. KSB’s are intended to be used by
trained RV technicians with the knowledge, tools and equipment to do the job properly and safely, not
“do-it-yourselfers”.
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Information is not presented as a repair guaranteed to be covered by warranty.
Keystone’s P & P (Policy & Procedures) must be followed for any requested warranty work.
Do not assume this repair is covered by warranty.
Not every unit requires a repair.

This process describes the safe and proper procedure to repair any unit which experiences a crack
at the bottom corner of a slideout at the gooseneck of a 5th wheel by opening the side wall to add
reinforcement. This Keystone Service Bulletin explains how to perform the repair.
Model and Serial Numbers Included: 2020-2022 Avalanche and Alpine Fifth Wheel Units
2020-2023 Montana, High Country Montana and Fuzion Fifth Wheel Units
Parts Required per Unit: The adhesives noted below are the only acceptable adhesives for this
repair. The parts listed below are for one side only. If both sides require repair, order more
adhesives/parts.
• 4 ea. KRV # 207257 - Adhesive - Panel Bonding - Auto mix - 200ml – 2 Part
Epoxy – 08115 - 3M - 2 application tips included with each tube.
• 1 ea. KRV # 699245 - Adhesive Applicator Gun 1:1 Ratio – 2:1 ratio
• 5 ea. KRV # 346665 - Adhesive-Sealant - Lavanture -10oz -High Performance – Manus Bond 75-GP
• 1 - Trim – H-Divider Cover - [Expansion/Relief joint]
KRV # 426646 - Ivory or KRV # 600813 - Black
• 1 ea. KRV Manual ID - Fiberglass/filon Skin, noting double layer of Lauan and Door Side or
Off Door Side Sidewall
• Graphics/Decals – order as needed.
If reinforcement is added from the interior side you will need to order:
• 1 ea. [Interior Décor Panel] Order to match interior décor
• 1 ea. [Seam Tape] Order to match interior décor
Ground shipment only - Hazardous Material
Application Gun may be returned for full credit, submit on RGA.
Local parts: #14 x 5” screws, 3” wood screws, Pin-box jack, silicone sealant, putty tape, 2” x 4”
and 2” x 6” lumber, ¼”-20 x 3” screws, non-sag roof sealant, scrap skirt metal, carpet remnants. 1
¼” x 1 ¼” wood and 1 ¾” x 1 ¼” wood which can be ripped down out of more 2x4’s or 2x6’s

KSB-210122 V2

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Tools Required: Hammer, Dead-blow mallet, Screw gun and drill, 6” x 3/16” and 7/32” Drill bits,
Stapler, 4 ½” Wheel Grinder-80 grit disc, C-Clamps, Quick-Grip Clamps, Caulk gun, Flat Bar/Pry Bar,
Floor Scraper, Squeegee, Dremel Tool, Framing Square
This KSB requires a Pre-Authorization & Photographs if being submitted for warranty coverage.
When performing this KSB, please make certain that appropriate Personal Protective Equipment
(PPE) is used.
The remedy is to remove the filon, add reinforcement to the wall. Replace the filon and add expansion
joints top and bottom at front of the slideout opening.
PLEASE WATCH THE VIDEO FIRST, THE LINK IS
FOUND AT THE TOP OF THE PREVIOUS PAGE.

Fig 1

REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
Step 1
Locate the trailer on a level, flat, hard surface. Chock
the wheels.
Step 2
Use the front landing legs, lower the unit on to a tripod
so that the front legs are just off the ground placing the
weight of the unit on the tripod. Throughout this repair it
is very important to not raise the unit. Leave the weight
of the RV on the tripod during the repair. See Figure 1
Step 3
Extend the slideout and if necessary remove it from the
sidewall including the side seals and tower on the side
where the work is being performed.
Step 4
Now that the RV is ready disconnect 120VAC
and12VDC power to the unit.
Step 5
Remove the pre-bent trim from the bottom and both
sides of the front cap. See Figure 2
DO NOT remove the screws from the top roof line
where the cap attaches. See Figure 3
Fig 3

Fig 2

KSB-210122 V2
Step 6
Remove the bulkhead moldings and if applicable
remove the drip rail from above the slideout.

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Fig 4

Step 7
Loosen the roof line gutter rail approximately 3
feet back and use a wedge to hold it away from
the wall. Carefully fold rubber roof back and tape it
down and out of the way.
Step 8
Extend the bottom of the cap approximately 1 foot
and brace to hold the cap back out of the way.
See Figure 4
Step 9
Use the framing square to mark the wall and use
the Dremel tool to cut the upper expansion joint even with the slideout opening all the way to the
roof line. The cut should only leave a 1/16” gap for the t-molding to tightly fit into. See Figure 5 and
Figure 6
Fig 5

Fig 6

KSB-210122 V2

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Step 10
If the unit already has a lower expansion joint remove the t-molding and make sure the joint is cut
all the way through, use the Dremel tool to fully cut through top to bottom. If the unit does not have
a lower expansion joint cut one even with the slideout opening all the way to the bottom of the filon.
Again, the cut should only leave a 1/16” gap for the t-molding to tightly fit into.
See Figures 7 and 17A
Step 11
Peel back the
forward portion of
filon to the corner of
the slideout top and
bottom using a pry
bar and flat scraper
to release the lauan
from the aluminum
frame and foam.
Remove the filon in
one piece to use as
a template for the
new piece. See
Figure 8

Fig 8

Fig 7

Step 12
Remove the Bulkhead cover to access and remove the screws from the sidewall straps that hold
the sidewalls in place on both sides of the RV. Figure 9 Check for screws on the backside of the
steel frame tube, if screws are found remove them. See Figure 10 Inspect the sidewall straps for
cracks Figure 9 - if cracked contact LCI to perform repairs to sidewall straps first.
Fig 9

Fig 10

KSB-210122 V2

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Step 13
Inspect the 3 sidewall tubes for missing wood. If wood is missing stuff the tubes on both sides of
the RV using 1 ¼” x 1 ¼” wood and 1 ¾” x 1 ¼” wood which can be ripped down out of 2x4’s or
2x6’s Typical length of the wood is 53”. If the cap is in the way just release the quick clamp holding
the cap out to allow room to insert the wood. (See Video/Link Top of Front page) Use a hammer
if necessary to drive them in. See Figure 11 After all tubes have wood installed, pull the sidewall
tight to the frame with a clamp and use a 3/16th drill bit to predrill up through the exiting screw
holes in the sidewall strap through the wood stuffed tubes, then install #14 X 5” screws.
See Figure 12
Fig 11

Fig 12

Step 14
Secure the sidewall to the chassis frame. If wires are present in that tube be sure to install a stop
on the drill bit to avoid damaging the wires. See Figure 13 Using a 7/32” drill bit pre-drill holes
through the sidewall and through the 2X6 LCI steel tube. Then add (4) 1/4”-20X3” screws horizontal
through the wood stuffed tubes into the center of the steel tube. See Figure 14
Fig 13

Fig 14

KSB-210122 V2

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Step 15
Prep the wall for reinforcement. Cut the 2x6 wood for the area and use them as a template to mark
where you will cut the Styrofoam. Remove the Styrofoam insulation from between the studs, cut off
any exposed screws. If you find any broken welds on the sidewall tubes do not worry, this will be
remedied once all is glued and screwed together with the wood and metal. Now dry-fit the 2x6’s to
make sure they fit. See Figure 15
Step 16
Cut the aluminum skirt metal to fit from the slideout opening to the front of the sidewall and down to
the bottom of the sidewall tube. Be sure the metal will cover the 2x6 boards that will go in for the
repair. See Figure 16
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Remember we’re still prepping, do not glue or screw anything down yet.
Fig 16

Fig 15

Step 17
Pocket drill each 2 x 6 and sand both sides of the
skirt metal and all aluminum studs with 80 grit sand
paper. Using a grinder, remove previously used
adhesive from the remaining aluminum framing in
preparation for a clean surface to re-adhere to. See
Figure 17
Fig 17A

Fig 17

Step 17A
After the
expansion
joint is cut
inspect the
wall for solid
backing. See Figure 17A, If Styrofoam is found on either
side of the joint, it is necessary to remove the interior
décor panel to remove the Styrofoam and add a 2” x 6” to
the area, glue in with 2 part epoxy and pocket screw in
place as described in Step 18. This will aid in the install of
the expansion joint cover and give it a solid foundation.
Don’t forget to order new paneling and seam tape.

KSB-210122 V2
Step 18
Prep the area using the adhesive the 2 Part Epoxy
KRV # 207257 and cover the area with a 1/8” thick
layer, then install the 2”x 6”studs and pocket screw
in place with 3” screws. See Figure 18

Fig 18

NOTE: Be sure to follow the directions of the
adhesives. Work time and cure time are
different for each. Once the new filon is
installed it is recommended to let it cure
overnight.
Step 19
Use the 2 part epoxy again on the aluminum studs
and the wood, spread this out in an even layer 1/8”
thick and lay the sheet-metal on top of this press
firmly and we recommend to staple to hold in place.
If you use screws for this step, unless you
countersink them you will have to remove them
once the epoxy has cured. See Figure 19 and
Figure 20

Fig 19

Step 20
Dry-fit the new filon and make sure it’s going to fit.
To make this easier at the top remove the door side
clamp for the front cap to make enough room for the
filon to slip past the top corner of the cap.
NOTE: After the filon is ready, peel the
protective plastic cover from the filon and set
the filon off to the side while you prep the
sidewall with adhesive.
Step 21
Use the 2 part epoxy again on the aluminum studs,
spread this out in an even layer 1/8” thick. See
Figure 21 Then use the Lavanture adhesive KRV#
346665 on the Styrofoam, spread this out in an
even layer 1/8” thick. See Figure 22 Install the new
filon in place and add screws to front filon perimeter,
the slideout opening perimeter and at the top, the
bottom will have to be clamped. Clean off any glue
now so it does not dry on the filon. Brace from top to
bottom using 2x4’s and carpet and allow to dry
overnight. See Figure 23 and Figure 24
NOTE: Follow the directions of the
adhesives. Work time and cure time are
different for each. After the new filon is installed
it is recommended to let it cure overnight.

Fig 20

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KSB-210122 V2
Fig 21

Fig 22

Fig 23

Fig 24

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KSB-210122 V2

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Step 22
The next day remove the bracing. Remove all the screws used on the edges. Inspect the filon at
the edges and trim any excess sidewall skin if necessary. Recut the expansion joints to have the
room to then install both top and bottom expansion joint covers with silicone. See Figure 25 and
Figure 26
Fig 25

Fig 26

Step 23
Clean all components removed and to be reinstalled by removing any old putty or sealants. This
includes inspecting all the sealants on the slideout box. Prep the components and attachment
points with alcohol for a good clean mating surface. Reinstall cap, moldings, decals, and slideout.
Note: When installing the bottom and top bulb seals of the slideout DO NOT install a screw within
2” of each corner. Seal all components using silicone except the roof membrane. Use appropriate
roof sealant on membrane.
Step 24
Test the repair by alternating hitch weight between pin and landing jacks and verify skin is
unaffected by weight transfer. Take it for a test drive if possible. Re-inspect and if all is well the
repair is complete.
WARRANTY REIMBURSEMENT
This KSB is for repair purposes only. If this is a warranty repair, the flat rate code is 7301342A
No part return required.
If you have questions, please contact the appropriate Team:
Team Luxury – 866-273-1450

Team Toy Hauler – 866-273-1452

Team Premium – 866-273-1454

Team Crossroads – 844-361-8455