Always make sure to install the new rings in the proper direction (marks facing upward on
the top and 2nd ring) and end gaps in the proper locations as outlined in the Service Manual
and later in this bulletin.

•

Confirm the new top and second rings turn freely in the piston ring lands following their
installation and prior to cylinder insertion.

•

Cylinder honing is not required or recommended.

SPECIFIC PROCEDURES
The following information is provided to underscore procedures specific to the repairs outlined
in this bulletin and are not meant to represent the entire repair process from start to finish. The
procedures provided here are specific to only specific certain steps in the overall process. In
some cases, they will differ greatly from the Service Manual instructions and should be followed
in place of the Service Manual for these specific areas. For the balance of the repair procedure,
refer to the Service Manual. It is highly recommended to review all of the related Service
Manual procedures for piston ring replacement then review these specific procedures to become
familiar with the differences.
• When draining the engine oil, do not remove the engine oil filter. Leave the existing oil filter in
place through engine disassembly, reassembly, installation and initial startup after engine reassembly.
• When removing the engine, there is no need to remove the transmission case cover (CVT only)
or to disconnect / disturb any of the transmission harness connectors. While raising the transmission
with the service jack placed under the front differential as shown in the illustration below, only raise
it enough to access and remove the engine mounting hardware. Raising it too high can push the
transmission up into the bulkhead / transmission tunnel and possibly cause damage.

Continued...
Bulletin Number: 02-143-13R; Date: 10/10/13

Page 5

•

When removing the CVT fluid cooler, leave it attached to the mounting bracket and remove
it as an assembly (3 bolts) from the transmission. Disconnect just the engine coolant hoses
from it and leave the 2 short CVT fluid lines alone. Hook one of the cooler’s mounting
bracket “ears” behind the bulkhead harness as shown in the photo below to keep the cooler
assembly out of your way. Use a shop cloth between the “ear” and the bulkhead harness to
prevent any chafing.

•

To make separating the transmission (CVT) from the engine easier, there is a pry relief
shown below in the machined mounting surface of the transmission case near the engine
number. Use caution when applying any prying pressure and avoid twisting the tool to
prevent case damage.

Continued...
Bulletin Number: 02-143-13R; Date: 10/10/13

Page 6

•

Once the engine is removed, if you are using a generic engine stand (preferable since engine
rotation is necessary), use the four mounting holes on the engine block shown below to
mount it. Do not use the studs in the upper oil pan as the upper oil pan has to be removed to
access the connecting rod bolts. NOTE: The connecting rod bolts are one-time-use and must
be replaced.

•

When removing the intake manifold, as shown in the photos below, leave the TGV
assemblies attached to the upper intake, remove the 2 nuts holding the EGR tube to the water
pipe then remove the complete assembly from the cylinder heads as a unit.

•

There is no need to remove the oil dipstick tube or the original oil filter from the front chain
cover. While the cover is removed, store it face (front side) down to minimize the chances of
damaging the machined sealing surface on the block / head side. Also, don’t use it as a tray
to store other removed parts. This will help to reduce the chances of contamination entering
the various oil passages throughout the front cover.

Continued...
Bulletin Number: 02-143-13R; Date: 10/10/13

Page 7

•

IMPORTANT: After all 32 bolts securing the chain cover are removed, be VERY careful
where you pry and what you pry on to break the silicone sealant bond. The photos below
show an example of where NOT to pry. In this case, the cam cap became cracked requiring a
complete cam carrier replacement. Patience is the key!

Reference View

Rear View
Chain Cover

Prying on “Unsupported” Corner of Cam Cap

•

Refer to STIS for the instructions found in the Technician Reference Booklet (TRB) for
Technical Training Module 105: “Chain Driven Valve Train Boxer Engines” when removing
and reassembling the timing chain components. The photos and instructions found in the
TRB and provided in this bulletin have shown to be preferable to those provided in the
Service Manual. The following contains significant highlights from this material.

•

The timing chains driving the camshafts are identical and are provided with colored
identification links used to align with component timing marks. Chain guides are also
identical for the left and right banks. It is recommended to mark the parts as they are
removed. Return them to their original positions during reassembly to maintain established
wear patterns. Colors used for the identification links will vary.

Continued...
Bulletin Number: 02-143-13R; Date: 10/10/13

Page 8

•

Begin timing chain removal by positioning the crankshaft keyway at the 6:00 position. The
RIGHT bank intake camshaft timing mark (Δ) must be at 6:00 with right bank exhaust timing
mark at 12:00 (camshafts will be unloaded).
6:00

6:00

12:00

•

Compress the chain tensioner by hand, insert a pin through the lever into the access hole
to lock the plunger in place then remove the 2 bolts, tensioner, guides and right side timing
chain.

•

After turning the crankshaft CLOCKWISE, repeat the procedure for the LEFT side with the
timing marks (Δ) positioned as shown below. Align the crankshaft sprocket keyway with RH
chain dowel pin (shown in red below).
8:00

Dowel Pin

1:00

•

Compress the chain tensioner by hand, insert a pin through the lever into the access hole to
lock the plunger in place then remove the 2 bolts, tensioner, guides and the left side timing
chain.

•

After the left chain is removed, turn the crankshaft in a COUNTER CLOCKWISE
direction until the timing mark on the crankshaft sprocket (NOT the keyway) is back to the
6:00 position as shown below. This positions all the pistons away from TDC and prevents
accidental contact between the pistons and valves.

Continued...
Bulletin Number: 02-143-13R; Date: 10/10/13

Page 9

Timing Mark

Crankcase Seam

•

Before proceeding, rotate the engine 90 degrees so it is vertical, with one head facing up.

•

Remove the rocker cover then the cam carrier from the head that is “up”. Do not disturb the
small camshaft end cap covers. Remove the cam carrier with the camshafts as an assembly.
At this point, the rest of the valve train is sitting loose on the cylinder head. It is imperative
all the rockers, selective lash caps and rocker pivots are returned to their original
positions on the cylinder head during reassembly. TIP: An egg carton for each head
makes a perfect organizer tray. Make sure to mark it as necessary (front, intake, exhaust) to
eliminate any mixing of parts. Loosen the cylinder head bolts in proper order, remove the
head, then flip the engine over and repeat the same steps for the opposite side.

•

A mild parts cleaner (avoid harsh chemicals with strong solvents) may be used with ScotchBrite™ Ultra-Fine #7448 (gray in color) to clean away any carbon ridge which may have
formed at the top of the cylinder bores before removing the piston / rod assemblies.

•

Remove the cylinder heads then the piston / rod assemblies. Inspect the cylinder walls
for any excessive or irregular wear patterns which could indicate an out-of-round condition.
The short block will need to be replaced if the cylinder roundness or taper measurements
are out of specification or if any vertical scoring is deep enough that it can be caught with a
finger nail.

•

For the purpose of this repair, it is not necessary to remove the piston from the connecting
rod. NOTE: if the piston pin circlips are removed for any reason, they must be replaced as
they are one-time use. Again, it is not necessary to remove the pistons from the connecting
rods to complete this repair.

Continued...
Bulletin Number: 02-143-13R; Date: 10/10/13

Page 10

•

When cleaning the pistons prior to installing the new rings, take care not to damage the antifriction coating applied to the skirts. A mild parts cleaner may also be used with the ScotchBrite Ultra-Fine #7448 (gray in color) to loosen and remove carbon deposits from the piston
crown and from between the ring lands. Do not use Scotch-Brite to clean the piston skirts
as it can damage the anti-friction coating. The ends of a removed compression ring may be
used to carefully clean deposits from inside the ring lands. Rinse the piston / rod assemblies
thoroughly and dry before installing the new rings onto the pistons. Refer to the Service
Manual and the illustrations below for ring direction (marks facing upward) and end gap
placements. Remember to lubricate the rings, piston skirts, cylinder walls, wrist pin areas,
rod bearing surfaces and rod bolt heads and threads with engine oil before reassembly.

F

FRONT OF ENGINE
B

A

C

G

E

D

“A”- Top compression ring end gap location
“B”- Second compression ring end gap location (180 degrees away from “A”)
“C”- Top oil control scraper ring end gap
“D”- Recess in top of ring land to accept the “tang” of the upper oil control scraper ring - “E”
“F” - Expander gap (180 degrees away from “C”)
“G” - Bottom oil control scraper ring end gap (120 degrees away from “C”)
Continued...
Bulletin Number: 02-143-13R; Date: 10/10/13

Page 11

•

When reinstalling the piston / rod assemblies back into the block, take
time to ensure the piston ring compressor being used is completely down
flush all the way around onto the deck surface. If not “sealed” to the deck
and firmly held in place, the oil control scraper rings may pop out of the
compressor and become damaged during installation, especially if too
much force is used. The oil control rings are not available separately from
a complete ring set so, be sure to take your time and do not force anything.

Recommended Ring
Compressor; Special
Tool J-50553

•

ALWAYS install new connecting rod bolts as they are one-time use items.

•

It is very important to take the time necessary to thoroughly clean the old silicone sealer from
all the removed components before reassembly. It is a good idea to clean the surrounding
areas then use tape to block off any oil passages in the front cover and cam carrier so any
small bits of removed silicone debris are kept from entering the oil passages and possibly
causing problems after reassembly. Once all the old sealer has been removed, remove any
block-off tape, rinse out any oil passages thoroughly with brake cleaner and shop air.

•

Don’t forget to clean (without removing) the filter screens in the cam carriers (one filter in
each) as shown in the photo below.

Continued...
Bulletin Number: 02-143-13R; Date: 10/10/13

Page 12

•

To begin timing chain re-installation, turn the crankshaft COUNTER-CLOCKWISE until
the crankshaft sprocket keyway is back to the 6:00 position. NOTE: The keyway is NOT a
timing mark.

Keyway
Timing Mark

•

Arrange the timing marks as shown below, turning the crankshaft CLOCKWISE into
position. Align the indicator link with the timing mark on the crankshaft sprocket, keyway
with the dowel pin.

•

Align the indicator links to the timing marks found on the outside of the sprocket
assemblies as shown in the photos below (Exhaust sprocket face images will vary with /
without exhaust VVT).
Timing Marks Aligned With
Indicator Links

Intake and Exhaust VVT Sprocket

No VVT Exhaust Sprocket

Continued...
Bulletin Number: 02-143-13R; Date: 10/10/13

Page 13

•

Install the chain guides and tensioner. Once proper positioning has been confirmed, pull the pin
to release the tensioner. With your hand, grab and squeeze the upper and lower chain / guides
together as shown in the reference photo below to allow the plunger in the tensioner to fully
extend and “click” into its furthest notch.

•

Rotate the crankshaft COUNTER-CLOCKWISE until the crankshaft sprocket timing mark
is at the 6:00 position. Position the cam sprocket timing marks as shown below; intake 6:00,
exhaust 12:00.

6:00

•

12:00

Align the indicator link with the timing mark on the crankshaft sprocket as shown below.

Continued...
Bulletin Number: 02-143-13R; Date: 10/10/13

Page 14

•

Same as the left side, align the indicator links to the timing marks found on the cam sprocket
assemblies. Install the chain guides and tensioner. Once proper positioning has been
confirmed, pull the pin to release the tensioner. With your hand, grab and squeeze the upper
and lower left side chain / guides together to allow the plunger in the tensioner to fully extend
and click into its furthest notch as shown in the previous (right side) photo.

•

IMPORTANT: When re-installing the front cover assembly, be very careful to not allow it
to contact any of the timing sprockets. If contact does occur, it will most likely be with the
exhaust sprockets and it is almost a guarantee the silicone sealer you have carefully put on the
front cover will be disturbed. If not properly addressed, that area will most likely be the source
of an oil leak. Don’t hesitate to use a helper for the front cover installation to prevent this.

•

Once the engine is back in the car and filled with fluids, remove the fuel pump fuse and crank
the engine over to prime the oiling system (for no more than 10 seconds at a time) until the
oil pressure warning light goes out. Re-install the fuel pump fuse then run the engine initially
with the original oil filter remaining installed on the front cover for approximately 5 minutes
to catch any other remaining debris. Check for any leaks then install a new oil filter. Start
the engine again and run it for another few minutes. Shut off the engine and let it cool down
for at least five minutes. Re-check and top off the engine oil to the full mark (upper hole) on
the dipstick before releasing the vehicle.

•

It should be noted that some higher than expected oil consumption may occur initially
following these repairs until the new piston rings become seated with the cylinder walls.
While higher, this consumption should not be severe. This will improve over time with
driving until the expected consumption rate is achieved.

WARRANTY / CLAIM INFORMATION
For vehicles within the Basic New Car Limited and/or Powertrain Warranty, this repair may be
claimed using the following information:
LABOR DESCRIPTION

LABOR
OPERATION #

FAIL
CODE

LABOR TIME
6MT
CVT

Oil & Filter Change, Oil Leak & PCV System Inspection

A295-308

AFU-86

0.5

Engine R&R & Piston Ring Replacement

A295-346

AFT-48

Bulletin Number: 02-143-13R; Date: 10/10/13

12.6

13.1

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