NHTSA ID Number: 10153886
Manufacturer Communication Number: B19-006
TSB/Document Date: 2019-02-26
Summary
Service Bulletin - The oil control rings may become clogged with carbon deposits. These deposits restrict the ring's ability to scrape and return oil from the cylinder wall to the crankcase, which can result in excessive engine oil consumption that may exceed client expectations. To increase client confidence, American Honda
is extending the engine warranty related to oil consumption to 8 years from the original date of purchase or 125,000 miles, whichever comes first. This warranty extension does not apply to any vehicle that has ever been declared a total loss or sold for salvage by a financial institution or insurer, or has a branded or similar title under any states law. To check for vehicle eligibility, you must do a VIN status inquiry.
engine oil consumption
test, and replace the
pistons, pins, and rings.
B19006C
10002-RKG-A06
1111EH
2010-13 ZDX: Do the
11.0 hrs
engine oil consumption
test, and replace the
pistons, pins, and rings.
B19006D
10002-RP6-A01
6C500
Symptom
Code
Y3800
Skill Level: Repair Technician
DIAGNOSIS
1. Do an engine oil consumption test. Refer to job aid Engine Oil Consumption Test.
2. Review the results of the engine oil consumption test.
•
If the engine is consuming an unusually high amount of oil, contact your DPSM for approval, then go to REPAIR
PROCEDURE.
•
If the engine is consuming a normal amount of engine oil, the vehicle is OK. Have the service consultant explain
to the client that the vehicle is OK and the consumption of oil is within a normal range.
NOTE
Have the service consultant remind the client to check the engine oil level every time the fuel tank is filled.
Modern engines require less frequent oil changes, which may impact the amount of oil used between oil
changes.
REPAIR PROCEDURE
NOTE
The following service information procedures have been used in full or in part within this service bulletin. For more detail
on these procedures and torque specifications for some components, refer to the service information.
•
Engine Oil Replacement
•
Battery Terminal Disconnection and Reconnection
•
Fuel Pressure Relieving
•
Coolant Replacement
•
Drive Belt Removal/Installation
•
Hydraulic Power Steering Fluid Check/Replacement
Page 4 of 22
•
Air Cleaner Removal/Installation
•
Fuel Line/Quick-Connect Fitting Removal
•
Front Bulkhead Cover Replacement
•
Cylinder Head Cover Removal
•
Intake Manifold Removal and Installation
•
Warm Up TWC Removal/Installation
•
Cylinder Head Removal and Installation
•
Cam Chain Removal and Installation
•
Valve Adjustment
•
Propeller Shaft Removal
•
Alternator Removal and Installation
•
Ignition coil and Spark Plug Removal and Installation
•
Exhaust Pipe and Muffler Replacement
•
Strut Brace Removal/Installation
1. Relieve the fuel pressure.
NOTES
•
Use fender covers to avoid damaging painted surfaces.
•
To avoid damaging any wires and terminals, unplug the circuit connectors carefully while holding the connector
portion.
•
Connect the i-HDS to the DLC, and monitor the ECT SENSOR 1. To avoid damaging the cylinder head, wait
until the engine coolant temperature drops below 100°F (38°C) before loosening the cylinder head bolts.
•
Mark all wiring and hoses to avoid misconnection. Also, be sure that they do not contact any other wiring or
hoses or interfere with any other parts.
2. Wait until the engine is cool, then carefully remove the radiator cap.
3. Loosen the drain plug on the radiator, and drain the engine coolant.
4. Plug the power steering hoses at the reservoir, and move them out of the way.
5. Do the battery removal procedure.
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6. Remove the engine cover. (TL has multiple covers.)
7. Disconnect the A/C suction line bracket at the right strut tower to allow for more clearance.
8. Remove the alternator.
9. Remove the intake manifold.
10. Remove the six ignition coils.
11. Remove the timing belt.
12. Disconnect the following engine wire harness connectors, and remove the wire harness clamps from the cylinder
head:
•
Six injector connectors
•
Knock sensor connector
•
ECT sensor 1 connector
•
Engine mount control solenoid valve connector
•
•
CMP sensor connector
•
Rocker arm oil control solenoid connector
•
Rocker arm oil pressure switch connector
•
Two A/F sensor connectors
•
Two secondary HO2S connectors
Page 6 of 22
13. Remove the front warm up TWC and the rear warm up TWC.
14. Remove the quick-connect fitting cover, then disconnect the fuel feed hose.
Page 7 of 22
15. Remove the connector bracket from the front cylinder head.
Page 8 of 22
16. Remove the mount control solenoid valve bracket from the rear cylinder head.
17. Remove the injector bases.
18. Remove the water passage.
19. Remove the camshaft pulleys and the back covers.
CYLINDER HEAD REMOVAL
1. Remove the cylinder head covers.
2. Remove the cylinder head bolts. To prevent warpage, loosen the bolts in sequence 1/3 turn at a time; repeat the
sequence until all the bolts are loosened.
3. Remove the cylinder heads, and visually inspect the head of the valves on the combustion side of the cylinder head
for damage.
Page 9 of 22
CYLINDER BORE INSPECTION
NOTES
IMPORTANT – When inspecting cylinder bores on engines related to this service bulletin, keep in mind that blocks were
produced with aluminum cylinder sleeves. These sleeves will look characteristically different from most other engines
that you have done service on. Additionally, just because a defect can be felt by a fingernail or pencil, does not
necessarily require the block to be changed.
Inspect the cylinder for any obvious concerns. Listed below are examples of concerns that may be found during your
inspection, which have been proven by factory testing to not create a functional issue.
•
During piston assembly at the factory, there may have been a vertical scratch created. This scratch can run the
entire length of the cylinder bore and can be felt by a fingernail. Potentially, each bore could be effected; however,
the cylinder block is OK. Go to OIL PAN REMOVAL.
•
In some cases, there is a discoloration of the cylinder bore. Examples are shown below. The cylinder block is OK.
Go to OIL PAN REMOVAL.
•
Additionally, blocks that have an area of light bore scuffing, also shown below, have been confirmed by testing that
the cylinder block is OK. Go to OIL PAN REMOVAL.
•
If the concern that you observe is different from these examples, contact your DPSM for evaluation.
Page 10 of 22
ENGINE OIL PAN REMOVAL
1. Drain the engine oil.
2. Disconnect the secondary HO2S.
3. Remove the under-floor TWC.
NOTE
Do not remove the front and rear secondary HO2S sensor.
4. Remove the rear warm up TWC bracket.
5. Disconnect the CKP sensor connector.
6. Remove the torque converter cover.
Page 11 of 22
7. Remove the transmission assembly mounting bolts attached to the oil pan.
8. Remove the bolts securing the oil pan.
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9. Using a flat blade screwdriver, separate the oil pan from the engine block as shown.
10. Remove the oil pan.
Page 13 of 22
REMOVAL OF PISTONS AND RODS
1. Remove the engine oil strainer and baffle plate.
Page 14 of 22
2. If you can feel a ridge of metal or hard carbon around the top of each cylinder, remove it with a ridge reamer.
3. Remove the connecting rod caps after setting the connecting rod journal at bottom dead center (BDC) for each
cylinder. Remove the piston /connecting rod assembly by pushing on the connecting rod.
NOTES
•
Before removing the rod caps, use a grease pencil or suitable marking pen to mark each cap and its
corresponding connecting rod with the cylinder number it came from. This ensures you are putting the same rod
and cap back together with the right orientation.
•
Take care not to damage the oil jets, the connecting rod journal, or the cylinder with the connecting rod.
•
Do not confuse the existing markings on the side of the connecting rod and rod cap with a cylinder number.
They’re just manufacturing marks referring to the size of the big end of the rod.
Page 15 of 22
•
When torqueing the rod cap bolts, refer to the service information for details.
If you would like to see a video on this subject, we have added one to Tech2Tech®. Look for “Tips When
Working With Fracture Rods.”
4. Remove the snap rings from both sides of each piston. Start at the cut-out in the piston pin bore. Remove the snap
rings carefully so they do not go flying or get lost. Wear eye protection.
5. Separately heat each piston and connecting rod assembly to about 158 °F (70 °C), then remove the piston pin.
Page 16 of 22
INSTALLATION OF PISTONS, RODS, AND RINGS
1. Install a piston pin snap ring only on one side of the new piston.
2. Coat the new piston pin bore in the piston, the bore in the connecting rod, and the piston pin with new engine oil.
3. Heat the new piston to about 158°F (70°C).
Page 17 of 22
4. Assemble the new piston and the connecting rod with the embossed marks on the same side, as shown below.
Install the new piston pin.
NOTE
Apply new engine oil to the new piston pin.
5. Install the remaining snap rings.
6. Assemble the other new pistons the same way.
7. Install the rings as shown. The top ring has a 1E mark and the second ring has a 2E mark. The manufacturing
marks must be facing upward.
8. Rotate the rings in their grooves to make sure they do not bind.
Page 18 of 22
9. Position the ring end gaps as shown.
10. Position the piston/connecting rod assembly with the arrow facing the timing belt side of the engine block.
Page 19 of 22
11. Set the piston in the ring compressor, and position it in the cylinder.
12. Set the ring compressor on the piston bore, then push the piston in with your hands.
13. Stop after the ring compressor pops free, and check the connecting rod-to-rod journal alignment before pushing the
piston into place.
14. Before installing the rod bolts, measure the diameter of each connecting rod bolt at point A and point B.
15. Calculate the difference in diameter between point A and point B.
Page 20 of 22
Point A-Point B = Difference in Diameter. Difference in Diameter Specification: 0-0.1 mm (0-0.004 in)
16. If the difference in diameter is out of tolerance, replace the connecting rod bolt.
17. Install the connecting rod bearing, then line up the mark on the connecting rod and the rod cap.
18. Apply new engine oil to the bolt threads and flanges. Torque the bolts to 20 N·m (14 lb·ft).
19. Tighten the connecting rod bolt an additional 90°.
NOTE
Remove the connecting rod bolt if you tightened it beyond the specified angle, and inspect the connecting rod bolt.
Do not loosen it back to the specified angle.
Page 21 of 22
20. Install the engine oil strainer and baffle plate.
21. Install all removed parts according to the service information.
END
Page 22 of 22
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TSB/Document ID: B19-006
Replacement Service Bulletin Number:
MFR Communication Date: 2019-02-21
MFR Internal Campaign ID/Software Version:
Communication Type: Service Bulletin/Repair Instructions
NHTSA Components: ENGINE
MFR Component System:
MFR Component Subsystem:
Previous TSB | Next TSB |
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