NHTSA ID Number: 10152434
Manufacturer Communication Number: A13-082
TSB/Document Date: 2019-01-05
Summary
"Service bulletin - American Honda
is announcing a powertrain warranty extension as a result of a settlement of a class action captioned, Soto et al.v. American Honda Motor Co., Inc., Case No. 3:12-cv-1377-SI (N.D. Cal.). The piston rings on certain cylinders may rotate and align, which can lead to spark plug fouling. This can set DTCs P0301 No. 1 cylinder misfire detected, P0302 No. 2 cylinder misfire detected, P0303 No. 3 cylinder misfire detected, P0304 No. 4 cylinder misfire detected, and cause the MIL to come on. American Honda is extending the powertrain warranty to cover repairs related to engine misfire (that triggers DTCs P0301 through P0304) to 8 years with unlimited mileage from the original date of purchase and has settled a class action based on this remedial measure."
8
16
REQUIRED MATERIALS - REPAIR PROCEDURE B
Material Description
Part Number
Quantity
Honda Long-Life Antifreeze/Coolant Type 2
0L999–9011
3 gallons
Full Synthetic Engine Oil 0W-20 Oil
08798–9063
6 quarts
Genuine Honda Motor Oil 5W-20 (If requested 2009–11)
08798–9032
6 quarts
Hondabond HT (1 Tube Repairs 5 Vehicles)
08718–0004
1 tube
Genuine Honda Throttle Plate Cleaner
08700–9204
Nylon Parts Cleaning Brush
(commercially available)
5/16 ID Flexible Hose
(commercially available)
TOOL INFORMATION - REPAIR PROCEDURE B
Part Name
Part Number
Quantity
Piston Ring Groove Cleaner
07AAZ–TA5A100
1
Cylinder Wall Inspection Tool
07AAJR70A300
1
Gasket Remover/Pan Separator
LIL50190
1
Piston Ring Expander
Snap-On PRS8 or
equivalent
1
Piston Ring Compressor
SCP1287 or equivalent
1
NOTE
Each dealer was sent one cylinder wall inspection tool.
Page 7 of 34
REPAIR PROCEDURE A - SOFTWARE UPDATE AND CYLINDERS 1-4 SPARK PLUG REPLACEMENT
1. For 2009-11 models only, update the PCM software. Refer to Service Bulletin 01-023, Updating Control Units/
Modules.
2. Replace spark plugs on cylinders 1–4, then return the vehicle to the customer.
REPAIR PROCEDURE B - PISTON CLEANING AND RING REPLACEMENT
2009–11 Models: Confirm PCM software is or has been updated with the correct version, spark plugs 1–4 have been
replaced and the vehicle returned to the customer (Procedure A). Piston cleaning and piston ring replacement along
with the spark plugs should only be done after the customer has returned with a second failure or if the vehicle’s
software is the correct version (Procedure B). Failure to follow this process correctly may result in a full debit of
the warranty claim to your dealer.
2012–13 Models: Are equipped with the updated software from the factory, no software update is needed. Piston
cleaning and piston ring replacement along with the spark plugs should only be done after the diagnosis of the spark
plugs has concluded that (Procedure B) is required.
The following service information procedures have been used in full or in part within this service bulletin. For more detail
on these procedures, and torque specifications for some components, refer to the service information.
•
Battery Terminal Disconnection and Reconnection
•
Fuel Pressure Relieving
•
Fuel Line/Quick-Connect Fitting Removal
•
Air Cleaner Removal/Installation
•
Splash Shield Replacement
•
Drive Belt Removal/Installation
•
Engine Oil Replacement
•
Coolant Replacement
•
Hydraulic Power Steering Fluid Check/Replacement
•
Intake Manifold Removal and Installation
•
Timing Belt Removal and Installation
•
Warm Up-TWC Removal/Installation
•
Cylinder Head Cover Removal
•
Cylinder Head Removal and Installation
•
Piston Ring Replacement
•
PCM Idle Learn Procedure
•
Valve Adjustment
Page 8 of 34
Piston Removal Procedure
•
Use fender covers to avoid damaging painted surfaces.
•
To avoid damaging any wires and terminals, unplug the circuit connectors carefully while holding the connector
portion.
•
Mark all the circuits and hoses to avoid misconnection. Make sure they do not contact other circuit wiring, hoses, or
interfere with other parts.
1. Relieve the fuel pressure.
2. Remove both front wheels so you can fully lower the vehicle.
3. Do the battery removal procedure.
4. Disconnect the fuel feed hose line at the bulkhead.
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5. Remove the engine cover.
6. Remove the radiator cap.
7. Raise the vehicle.
8. Remove the front splash shield.
9. Drain the engine oil.
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10. Loosen the drain plug on the radiator, and drain the coolant.
11. Install a 5/16th inner diameter rubber hose on the drain bolt located at the rear of the engine block, loosen the drain
bolt, and drain all remaining coolant. Then disconnect the oil pressure switch connector.
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12. Remove the subframe stiffener.
13. Remove exhaust pipe A.
14. Depending on the diagnosis, remove the appropriate WU-TWC support bracket bolts.
15. Remove the EGR lower pipe nuts.
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16. Remove the crankshaft pulley bolt but not the pulley.
NOTE
Make sure to apply new oil to the bolt flange and threads before reinstallation.
17. Lower the vehicle.
18. Disconnect the MAP sensor connector and the breather pipe, then remove the intake air duct.
19. Disconnect the throttle body connector, the EVAP canister purge valve connector, the EVAP hose, the brake booster
vacuum hose, and the vacuum hose.
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20. Disconnect and plug the water bypass hoses.
21. Remove the drive belt.
22. Remove the drive belt auto-tensioner.
23. Remove the power steering pump bolts, the power steering bracket then secure the power steering pump out of the
way.
NOTE
Do not remove any of the hoses.
24. Remove the engine harness holder bolt on the side engine mount.
25. Set the engine to TDC cylinder one.
26. Remove the crankshaft pulley.
27. Remove the timing belt.
28. Remove the timing belt idler pulley.
Page 14 of 34
29. Remove the engine intake upper cover and PCV hose.
30. Remove the intake manifold bolts and nuts in three steps, then remove the intake manifold.
31. Remove the PCM cover.
Page 15 of 34
32. Remove the PCM connectors and harness clamps. Remove the battery cables from the underhood fuse box.
33. Remove the appropriate Ignition coils based on the diagnosis.
NOTE
Depending on the diagnosis, you will either have to remove the rear bank ignition coils or both the front and rear
bank ignition coils.
Page 16 of 34
34. Depending on the diagnosis, remove some or all of the following:
•
ECT sensor connector
•
Front rocker arm oil pressure switch connector
•
Rear rocker arm oil pressure switch connector
•
CMP sensor connector
•
Front A/F sensor one connector
•
Rear A/F sensor one connector
•
Front secondary HO2S connector
•
Rear secondary HO2S connector
•
Rocker arm oil control solenoid A connector (bank one)
•
Rocker arm oil control solenoid A connector (bank two)
•
Rocker arm oil control solenoid B connector (bank one)
•
Alternator connector and positive alternator cable
•
A/C clutch switch connector
•
EGR 5P valve connector
•
Engine ground
•
•
Fuel injector connectors and clips
35. Remove the quick-connect fitting cover, then disconnect the fuel feed hose.
Page 17 of 34
36. Remove the EVAP canister purge joint with the bracket.
37. Remove the fuel rail connecting joint hose (Quick-Connect fitting).
Page 18 of 34
38. Remove the EGR pipe mounting bolts, then remove the EGR pipe.
39. Separate the water passage from the heads.
Page 19 of 34
40. Remove the appropriate WU-TWC depending on diagnosis.
NOTE
Set the WU-TWC aside and cover the opening with shop towels to prevent coolant from entering.
41. Remove the appropriate head with the injector base attached.
NOTE
Depending on diagnosis, you will remove the rear bank head or both heads.
Page 20 of 34
42. Measure the head bolts to determine if they need replacement. If either diameter is less than 11.3 mm (0.445 in.),
replace the cylinder head bolt.
NOTES
Below are the head bolt torque specifications for reinstallation.
42.1. Apply new engine oil to the threads and under the bolt heads.
42.2. Torque the cylinder bolts in sequence to 29 N•m (22 lb-ft).
42.3. Tighten in sequence an additional 90 degrees (third step).
42.4. Tighten in sequence an additional 90 degrees (fourth step).
42.5. If the bolts are new, tighten an additional 90 degrees.
Page 21 of 34
43. Raise the vehicle.
44. Remove the CKP sensor cover and bolts, then disconnect the CKP sensor connector.
45. Remove the torque converter case cover and the four bolts securing the oil pan to the transmission.
Page 22 of 34
46. Remove all bolts securing the oil pan.
47. Using a flat blade screwdriver, separate the oil pan from the engine block in the areas shown.
Page 23 of 34
48. Remove the oil strainer and baffle plate.
49. Lower the vehicle to a comfortable working height, and place a clean shop towel around the cylinder wall to prevent
debris from entering the coolant passage.
Page 24 of 34
50. Remove the appropriate piston depending on diagnosis.
NOTES
•
Before removing the rod caps, use a grease pencil or suitable marking pen to mark each cap and its
corresponding connecting rod with the cylinder number it came from.
•
Do not confuse the existing marking on the side of the connecting rod and rod cap with a cylinder number. They
are just manufacturing marks referring to the size of the big end of the rod.
•
Installing a rod cap incorrectly will result in engine knock and/or engine failure. Remove and mark one rod
assembly at a time to make sure it is assembled correctly.
•
When torqueing the rod cap bolts, refer to the service information for details.
•
Click HERE to go to the Tech2Tech® video “Tips When Working with Fracture Rods”.
51. Visually inspect all the connecting rod bearing for signs of damage.
NOTES
•
If your fingernail catches on a scratch or groove in the bearing, replace it. Pictured are normal reusable rod
bearings after about 35,000 miles. Some discoloration is normal and does not require replacement.
•
If the bearings look like they must be replaced, contact your DPSM for authorization.
Page 25 of 34
52. Cylinder Wall Inspection. If vertical scratches are noted in the cylinder wall, refer to Job Aid Using Cylinder Wall
Inspection Tool and or Tech2Tech "Using Cylinder Wall Inspection Tool".
NOTE
Do not use finger nail or pencil lead to determine if engine block is usable. Light to moderate scratches that are
detected with your finger nail will pass the inspection when using the cylinder wall inspection tool.
•
If the engine block is good, go to PISTON CLEANING PROCEDURE and clean the appropriate piston.
•
If the engine block is no good, replace the engine block. The block comes with updated pistons. This bulletin no
longer applies. You must obtain DPSM authorization and refer online to Engine Removal and Installation to
reinstall the engine.
Page 26 of 34
Piston Cleaning and Ring Replacement Procedure
1. Remove the piston rings from the piston using a ring expander. Be careful not to damage the piston.
2. Spray the piston head and piston ring grooves thoroughly with Honda throttle plate cleaner.
3. While holding the piston upright in your left hand, take the piston ring groove cleaner tool in your right hand and line
up the cleaner tool guides with the second (middle) piston ring groove.
Page 27 of 34
4. Press the handle on the piston ring groove cleaner tool and slide the cleaning bit onto the appropriate piston ring
grooves.
5. Once the cleaning bit is in the appropriate ring grooves of the piston, make sure the tool handle clicks in to place.
NOTE
There is only one notch on the tool for the handle to engage.
Page 28 of 34
6. Hold the piston steady and rotate the tool counter-clockwise five to six times to remove any carbon deposits in the
piston ring grooves. Do not rotate the tool clockwise.
NOTE
You can watch this procedure in the Tech2Tech segment “How to Clean Piston Ring Grooves”.
7. Remove the piston groove cleaning tool and clean off the carbon from the tool bit.
Page 29 of 34
8. Finish cleaning the piston with throttle plate cleaner and the nylon brush. Do not use a steel wire brush.
NOTE
Below are some examples of before and after pictures. Depending on mileage and running conditions, the pistons
will achieve different levels of cleanliness.
Page 30 of 34
9. Install the piston rings as shown.
NOTE
The first (top) ring has a 1R manufacturing mark and the second (middle) ring has an 2R manufacturing mark. The
manufacturing marks must be facing upward.
10. Rotate the rings in their grooves to make sure they do not bind.
11. Position the ring end gaps as shown.
NOTE
If the ring gaps are not positioned correctly, excessive blowby may occur.
12. Apply new engine oil to the piston, the inside of the piston ring compressor, and the cylinder bore.
NOTE
Cylinder wall honing is NOT required for this repair.
Page 31 of 34
13. Install the piston/connecting rod assembly into the cylinder bore with the arrow on top of the piston facing the timing
belt side of the engine.
NOTE
Be careful not to damage the cylinder wall when installing the piston.
14. Set the piston in the ring compressor, and position the piston in the cylinder based on the rod/cap marks that you
made in step 50.
Page 32 of 34
15. Set the ring compressor on the piston bore, then push the piston in with your hands.
16. Stop after the ring compressor pops free, and check the connecting rod-to-rod journal alignment before pushing the
piston into place.
17. Measure the diameter of the connecting rod bolts to determine if they need replacement. Calculate the difference in
diameter between point A and point B. It should not be more than 0–0.1 mm (0–0.004 in).
Page 33 of 34
18. Apply new oil to the connecting rod bolt threads and flanges. Torque the bolts to 20 N•m (14 lb-ft) then tighten the
connecting rod bolts an additional 90 degrees.
19. Reinstall the remaining components in the reverse order of removal.
20. Replace spark plugs 1–4.
21. Replace the oil filter and refill all fluids.
22. Do the idle learn procedure.
END
Page 34 of 34
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TSB/Document ID: A13-082
Replacement Service Bulletin Number:
MFR Communication Date: 2018-12-20
MFR Internal Campaign ID/Software Version:
Communication Type: Service Bulletin/Repair Instructions
NHTSA Components: EQUIPMENT
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