09401

B18009S

A

11.0 hrs

10.4 hrs

B

If the rear cylinder head was
replaced - add

C

If both front and rear cylinder
heads were replaced - add

06901

09401

B18009T

1111EF

2010-13 RL: Do the engine oil
consumption test, and replace the
short block.

06901

09401

B18009U

A

If the front cylinder head was
replaced - add

06901

09401

B18009V

B

If the rear cylinder head was
replaced - add

06901

09401

B18009W

C

If both front and rear cylinder
heads were replaced - add

06901

09401

B18009X

1111EE

2010-13 ZDX: Do the engine oil
consumption test, and replace the
pistons, rings, and spark plugs.
If the front cylinder head was
replaced - add

06901

09401

B28009A

06901

09401

B28009B

06901

09401

B28009C

06901

09401

B28009D

A
B

If the rear cylinder head was
replaced - add

C

If both front and rear cylinder
heads were replaced - add

11.2 hrs

11.0 hrs

10002-RK2-A03

10002-RKG-A06

10002-RP6-A01

Page 6 of 26

1111EF

2010-13 ZDX: Do the engine oil
consumption test, and replace the
short block.

06901

09401

B28009E

A

If the front cylinder head was
replaced - add

06901

09401

B28009F

11.6 hrs

B

If the rear cylinder head was
replaced - add

06901

09401

B28009G

C

If both front and rear cylinder
heads were replaced - add

06901

09401

B28009H

Skill Level:

Repair Technician

DIAGNOSIS
Do an engine oil consumption test. Refer to job aid Engine Oil Consumption Test.
Review the results of the engine oil consumption test.
If the engine is consuming an unusually high amount of oil, contact your DPSM for approval, then go to REPAIR
PROCEDURE.
 If the engine is consuming a normal amount of engine oil, the vehicle is OK. Have the service advisor explain to
the client that the vehicle is OK, and that the consumption of oil is within a normal range.
NOTE: Have the service advisor remind the client to check the engine oil level every time the fuel tank is filled.
Modern engines require less frequent oil changes, which may impact the amount of oil used between oil changes.


REPAIR PROCEDURE
NOTE: The following service information procedures have been used in full or in part within this service bulletin.
For more detail on these procedures and torque specifications for some components, refer to the service information.
 Engine Oil Replacement
 Battery Terminal Disconnection and Reconnection
 Fuel Pressure Relieving
 Coolant Replacement
 Drive Belt Removal/Installation
 Hydraulic Power Steering Fluid Check/Replacement
 Air Cleaner Removal/Installation
 Fuel Line/Quick-Connect Fitting Removal
 Front Bulkhead Cover Replacement
 Cylinder Head Cover Removal
 Intake Manifold Removal and Installation
 Warm Up TWC Removal/Installation
 Cylinder Head Removal and Installation
 Cam Chain Removal and Installation
 Valve Adjustment
 Propeller Shaft Removal
 Alternator Removal and Installation
 Ignition coil and Spark Plug Removal and Installation
 Exhaust Pipe and Muffler Replacement
 Strut Brace Removal/Installation

Page 7 of 26

Relieve the fuel pressure.
NOTE:
 Use fender covers to avoid damaging painted surfaces.
 To avoid damaging any wires and terminals, unplug the circuit connectors carefully while holding the connector
portion.
 Connect the i-HDS to the DLC, and monitor the ECT SENSOR 1. To avoid damaging the cylinder head, wait
until the engine coolant temperature drops below 100°F (38°C) before loosening the cylinder head bolts.
 Mark all wiring and hoses to avoid misconnection. Also, be sure that they do not contact any other wiring or
hoses or interfere with any other parts.
Wait until the engine is cool, then carefully remove the radiator cap.
Loosen the drain plug on the radiator, and drain the engine coolant.
Plug the power steering hoses at the reservoir, and move them out of the way.
Do the battery removal procedure.
Remove the engine cover. (TL has multiple covers.)

Disconnect the A/C suction line bracket at the right strut tower to allow for more clearance.
Remove the alternator.
Remove the intake manifold.
Remove the six ignition coils.
Remove the timing belt.
Disconnect the following engine wire harness connectors, and remove the wire harness clamps from the cylinder head:









Six injector connectors
Knock sensor connector
ECT sensor 1 connector
Engine mount control solenoid valve connector
EGR valve connector
CMP sensor connector
Rocker arm oil control solenoid connector
Rocker arm oil pressure switch connector
Page 8 of 26




Two A/F sensor connectors
Two secondary HO2S connectors

Remove the front warm up TWC and the rear warm up TWC.
Remove the quick-connect fitting cover, then disconnect the fuel feed hose.

Remove the connector bracket from the front cylinder head.

Page 9 of 26

Remove the mount control solenoid valve bracket from the rear cylinder head.

Remove the injector bases.
Remove the water passage.
Remove the camshaft pulleys and the back covers.
CYLINDER HEAD REMOVAL AND INSPECTION
Remove the cylinder head covers.
Remove the cylinder head bolts. To prevent warpage, loosen the bolts in sequence 1/3 turn at a time; repeat the
sequence until all the bolts are loosened.

Page 10 of 26

Remove the cylinder heads, and visually inspect the head of the valves on the combustion side of the cylinder head for
damage.
NOTE: This is only a visual inspection looking for damage to the valves.
 If any of the valves show signs of damage, replace the affected cylinder head and go to CYLINDER BORE
INSPECTION.
 If the valves are ok, go to step 4.
Visually inspect each of the spark plugs for damaged or melted pieces of the center electrode or ground electrode.



If any of the spark plug shows signs of damage, remove the valve closest to the damaged plug from the cylinder
head and go to step 5.
If the spark plugs are OK, go to CYLINDER BORE INSPECTION.

Visually inspect the cylinder head valve seat and the valve seat face for damage.



If there are any signs of damage replace the cylinder head and go to CYLINDER BORE INSPECTION.
If the valves and valve seats are ok, assemble the cylinder head and go to CYLINDER BORE INSPECTION.

Page 11 of 26

CYLINDER BORE INSPECTION
NOTE: IMPORTANT – When inspecting cylinder bores for blocks related to this service bulletin, keep in mind that
blocks were produced with an aluminum cylinder sleeve. This sleeve will look characteristically different from most other
engines that you have done service on. Additionally, just because a defect can be felt by a fingernail or pencil, it does
not necessarily require the block to be changed.
Inspect the cylinder for any obvious concerns. Listed below are examples of concerns that may be found during your
inspection, which have been proven by factory testing to not create a functional issue.
 During piston assembly at the factory, there may have been a vertical scratch created. This scratch can run the
entire length of the cylinder bore and can be felt by a fingernail. Potentially, each bore could be effected; however,
the cylinder block is OK. Go to OIL PAN REMOVAL.
 In some cases, there is a discoloration of the cylinder bore. Examples are shown below. The cylinder block is OK.
Go to OIL PAN REMOVAL.
 Additionally, blocks that have an area of light bore scuffing, also shown below, have been confirmed by testing that
the cylinder block is OK. Go to OIL PAN REMOVAL.
 If the concern that you observe is different from these examples, contact your DPSM for evaluation.

Page 12 of 26

ENGINE OIL PAN REMOVAL
Drain the engine oil.
Disconnect the secondary HO2S.
Remove the under-floor TWC.
NOTE: Do not remove the front and rear secondary HO2S sensor.
Remove the rear warm up TWC bracket.

Disconnect the CKP sensor connector.
Remove the torque converter cover.
Remove the transmission assembly mounting bolts attached to the oil pan.

Page 13 of 26

Remove the bolts securing the oil pan.

Using a flat blade screwdriver, separate the oil pan from the engine block as shown.

Page 14 of 26

Remove the oil pan.

REMOVAL OF PISTON AND RODS
Remove the engine oil strainer and baffle plate.

Page 15 of 26

If you can feel a ridge of metal or hard carbon around the top of each cylinder, remove it with a ridge reamer.

Remove the connecting rod caps after setting the connecting rod journal at bottom dead center (BDC) for each cylinder.
Remove the piston /connecting rod assembly by pushing on the connecting rod.

NOTE:
 Before removing the rod caps, use a grease pencil or suitable marking pen to mark each cap and its
corresponding connecting rod with the cylinder number it came from. This ensures you are putting the same rod
and cap back together with the right orientation.
 Take care not to damage the oil jets, the connecting rod journal, or the cylinder with the connecting rod.

Do not confuse the existing markings on the side of the connecting rod and rod cap with a cylinder number.
They’re just manufacturing marks referring to the size of the big end of the rod.
 When torqueing the rod cap bolts, refer to the service information for details.
If you would like to see a video on this subject, we have added one to Tech2Tech®. Look for “Tips When Working
With Fracture Rods.”


Page 16 of 26

Remove the snap rings from both sides of each piston. Start at the cutout in the piston pin bore. Remove the snap
rings carefully so they do not go flying or get lost. Wear eye protection.

Separately heat each piston and connecting rod assembly to about 158 °F (70 °C), then remove the piston pin.

Page 17 of 26

INSTALLATION OF PISTONS, RODS, AND RINGS
Install a piston pin snap ring only on one side of the new piston.

Coat the new piston pin bore in the piston, the bore in the connecting rod, and the piston pin with new engine oil.
Heat the new piston to about 158°F (70°C).

Page 18 of 26

Assemble the new piston and the connecting rod with the arrow and the embossed mark on the same side. Install the
new piston pin.

NOTE: Apply new engine oil to the new piston pin.
Install the remaining snap rings.
Assemble the other new pistons the same way.

Page 19 of 26

Install the rings as shown. The top ring has a 1E mark and the second ring has a 2E mark. The manufacturing marks
must be facing upward.

Top Ring (Standard) A: 3.1 mm (0.122 in)
B: 1.2 mm (0.047 in)
Second Ring (Standard) A: 3.4 mm (0.134 in)
B: 1.2 mm (0.047 in)

Page 20 of 26

Rotate the rings in their grooves to make sure they do not bind.
Position the ring end gaps as shown.

Position the piston/connecting rod assembly with the arrow facing the timing belt side of the engine block.

Set the piston in the ring compressor, and position it in the cylinder.

Page 21 of 26

Set the ring compressor on the piston bore, then push the piston in with your hands.

Stop after the ring compressor pops free, and check the connecting rod-to-rod journal alignment before pushing the
piston into place.
Before installing the rod bolts, measure the diameter of each connecting rod bolt at point A and point B.
Calculate the difference in diameter between point A and point B.

Point A-Point B = Difference in Diameter.
Difference in Diameter Specification:
0-0.1 mm (0-0.004 in)

Page 22 of 26

If the difference in diameter is out of tolerance, replace the connecting rod bolt.
Install the connecting rod bearing, then line up the mark on the connecting rod and the rod cap.

Apply new engine oil to the bolt threads and flanges. Torque the bolts to 20 N·m (15 lb·ft).
Tighten the connecting rod bolt an additional 90°.

NOTE: Remove the connecting rod bolt if you tightened it beyond the specified angle, and inspect the connecting
rod bolt. Do not loosen it back to the specified angle.

Page 23 of 26

Install the engine oil strainer and baffle plate.

Install all removed parts according to the service information.
SHORT BLOCK REPLACEMENT
NOTE: When you replace the short block, do not replace the pistons or rings; the new block already has the countermeasured pistons and rings installed.
With the vehicle lowered on the rack, remove/disconnect any remaining hoses, connectors, and components, including
the oil filter base/oil filter assembly, so you can remove the short block with an engine hoist.

Raise the vehicle.
Remove the lower transmission housing bolts, the drive plate bolts, axle bearing support, and any other brackets and
bolts that secure the transmission to the short block.
Page 24 of 26

Lower the vehicle, loosen the remaining trans/block bolts, and remove the front and rear engine mount bolts. Support
the transmission with a floor jack and rubber block under the transmission bell housing area. Set up an engine hoist with
a sling to remove the short block up and out of the engine compartment.
NOTE: You will not completely remove the block/trans bolts until the engine is secured with the hoist.
Remove the upper transmission housing bolts and two of the front engine/transmission mount bolts, then begin to
separate the short block from the transmission.
Lift the short block assembly from the vehicle, and place the assembly on a work bench or other suitable surface.
NOTE: The rear engine mount bracket can remain bolted to the block while it is being lifted out. As the block is lifted it
might need to rotate approximately 90 degrees so the bracket can clear the front and rear cowl. This rear bracket can
be transferred to the new block before hoisting it back in. MDX is unable to be lifted with the rear mount attached to the
engine. This will have to be removed prior to lifting the engine out.

Page 25 of 26

Transfer all remaining components from the original block to the new block and then carefully hoist the new short block
assembly into the vehicle.
NOTE: Installation of the short block with the cylinder heads attached to the short block will not allow for proper
clearance. The cylinder heads must be installed after the short block is installed in the engine compartment. Make sure
all bolt holes are clean before installing the short block.

Install all removed parts according to the service information, and refill all fluids.
END

Page 26 of 26