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23.

Raise the vehicle on the lift so that you can move the axle out of the way.

•
•

24.

Disconnect the lower ball joint from the lower control arm
Drive the inboard joint off of the intermediate shaft using a drift punch and a hammer, then move the shaft out
of your way

Remove the oil pan.
•

Remove the torque converter cover, then remove the two bolts securing the oil pan to the transmission.

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•

Remove the lower torque rod mounting bolts.

•

Loosen the mid-stiffener mounting bolt on both slides.

•

Place a transmission jack under the right side of the subframe and remove the subframe bolts on the right
side.

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•
•
•

Loosen the subframe mounting bolts on the left side so that you can lower the subframe about 20 mm.
Remove the lower torque rod bracket.
Remove the bolts securing the oil pan.

•

Raise the engine as high as possible using the engine hanger hook.

NOTE: The engine wobbles as it is being lifted, so make sure nothing is stressed or damaged such as the A/C
lines or pump
•
•

•

Disconnect the power steering fluid line from the subframe by unclipping it from the clamps and removing the
bolt.
Gently lower the right side of the subframe using the transmission jack until you have enough room to remove
the oil pan.

Using the pan separator, separate the oil pan from the engine block in the indicated area, and remove the oil
pan.

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25.

To hold the balance shaft, insert a 6 mm (1/4in.) diameter long pin punch into the maintenance hole in the balance
shaft holder and through the rear balancer shaft.

26.

Remove the cam chain and oil pump chain auto-tensioner.

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27.

Loosen the oil pump sprocket mounting bolt.

28.

Remove the oil pump sprocket and the oil pump.

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29.

Remove the baffle plate.

30.

Lower the vehicle to a comfortable working height, and place a clean shop towel around the cylinder wall to prevent
debris from entering the coolant passage.

31.

Check the cylinder walls by rubbing your fingernail or a pencil with light pressure perpendicular to any vertical
scratches that are in the cylinder bore.

•
•

If your fingernail or pencil does not catch on the scratches, the cylinder block is OK. Go to step 33.
If your fingernail or pencil catches on the scratches, go to step 32 to continue checking the cylinder block.

32.

Remove the piston from the scratched cylinder bore. Inspect the piston skirt for any scratches or damage that
corresponds with the scratched cylinder bore.

•

If the piston skirt has deep scratches, or is damaged, and corresponds to the position of the bore scratches, replace
the engine block. This bulletin no longer applies. You must obtain DPSM authorization and refer online to Engine
Removal and Installation to reinstall the engine.

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•

If the piston skirt has no damage, the cylinder block is OK; go to step 33.

33.

Remove the rod caps and the bearings.
NOTE:
•
•

34.

Mark each rod cap and its corresponding rod with the cylinder number.
The existing markings refer to the size of the big end of the rod, not the number of the cylinder.

Use a wooden hammer handle to drive out each of the piston and connecting rod assemblies.
NOTE: Be careful not to damage the cylinder walls or the crankshaft when pushing out the pistons and the
connecting rod assemblies.

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35.

Visually inspect all the connecting rod bearing for signs of damage.
NOTE: If your fingernail catches on a scratch or groove in the bearing, replace it. Pictured are normal reusable rod
bearings after about 35,000 miles. Some discoloration is normal and does not require replacement.

36.

Measure the diameter of each connecting rod bolt at points A and B.

37.

Calculate the difference in diameter between points A and B:
•
•
•

Point A – Point B = Difference in Diameter
Difference in Diameter Specification: 0 - 0.1 mm (0.004 in.)
If the difference in diameter is out of specification, replace the connecting rod bolt.

38.

Put on eye protection, then remove the snap rings from both sides of each piston. Start at the cutout in the piston pin
bore. Remove the snap rings carefully so they don’t go flying or get lost.

39.

Put on gloves, heat the piston and the ends connecting rod to about 158°F (70°C), then remove the piston pin.
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NOTE: The old piston, the pin, and the snap rings won’t be reused.

40.

Install a new piston pin snap ring on one side of a new piston.

41.

Coat the piston pin bore in the piston, the bore in the connecting rod, and the piston pin with new engine oil.

42.

Heat the piston to about 158°F (70°C).

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43.

Assemble the piston and the connecting rod with the arrow and the embossed mark on the same side. Install the
piston pin.
NOTE: When the piston and the rod end are heated properly, the piston pin should slide into position
relatively easily. You will damage the piston if you try to use a hammer or a press to force the piston pin in.

44.

Install the remaining snap ring.

45.

Turn the snap ring in the ring grooves until the end gaps are positioned at the bottom of the piston.

46.

Repeat steps 39 through 46 for the remaining pistons.

47.

Using a piston ring expander, install the spacer and two oil rings. Then install the second ring and top ring with the
manufacturing marks facing up. The second ring has a “2” followed by a letter or letters. The top ring has a “1”
followed by a letter or letters.
NOTE: The new rings may not have the same manufacturing marks as the originals.

48.

Rotate the rings in their grooves to make sure they do not bind.

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49.

Position the ring end gaps as shown.

50.

Rotate the crankshaft so that cylinders 1 and 4 are at bottom dead center (BDC).

51.

Remove the connecting rod cap to piston 1, and check that the bearing is securely in place.

52.

Apply new engine oil to the piston, the inside of the ring compressor, the cylinder bore, and the rod bearings

53.

Position the mark to face the cam chain end of the engine block.

54.

Set the piston in the ring compressor, and position the piston in the cylinder noting the rod/cap marks that you made
in step 34

55.

Set the ring compressor on the piston bore, then push the piston in with your hands.
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56.

Stop after the ring compressor pops free, and check the connecting rod-to-rod journal alignment before pushing the
piston into place.

57.

Apply new engine oil to the bolt threads, then install the connecting rod cap with the bearing. Torque the bolts to 41
N.m (30 lb-ft).

58.

Tighten the connecting rod bolts an additional 120°.
NOTE: If you tighten a rod bolt beyond the specified angle, remove it and repeat steps 58 and 59. Do not loosen
the bolt back to the specified angle.

59.

Repeat steps 47 through 58 for piston number 4.

60.

Rotate the crankshaft so that cylinders 2 and 3 are at bottom dead center (BDC).

61.

Repeat steps 47 through 58 for piston number 2 and 3.

62.

Rotate the crankshaft several times after all connecting rods have been installed to ensure that nothing is binding.

63.

Install the baffle plate, and torque the bolts to 12 N.m (8.7 lb-ft).

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64.

Set the crankshaft to top dead center (TDC). Align the TDC mark (A) on the crankshaft sprocket with the pointer (B)
on the engine block.

65.

Apply new engine oil to the threads of the oil pump mounting bolts (B) and the oil pump sprocket mounting bolt (C),
then loosely install the oil pump (D) with a new O-ring (E)

66.

Torque the oil pump mounting bolts and the oil pump sprocket mounting bolt according to figure shown.

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67.

Align the dowel pin (A) on the rear balancer shaft with the mark (B) on the oil pump.

68.

Install the oil pump chain on the crankshaft sprocket with the colored link plate (A) aligned with the TDC mark (B) on
the crankshaft sprocket.

69.

Set the oil pump sprocket on the oil pump chain with the punch mark aligned with the center of the colored link
plates, then install the oil pump chain sprocket to the oil pump.

• Apply new engine oil to the threads of the oil pump sprocket mounting bolt, then install it and torque it to 44 N.m
(33 lb-ft).
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70.

Install the oil pump chain auto-tensioner, and torque the bolts to 12 N.m (8.7 lb-ft).

71.

Remove the 6 mm (1/4 in.) diameter long pin punch.

72.

Remove the 3.0 mm pin from the oil pump chain auto-tensioner.

73.

Remove all of the old liquid gasket from the oil pan mating surfaces, the bolts, and the bolt holes.

74.

Clean and dry the oil pan mating surfaces.

75.

Apply liquid gasket, P/N 08718-0004, 08718-0003, or 08718-0009, to the engine block mating surface of the oil pan
and to the inside edge of the threaded bolt holes. Install the component within 5 minutes of applying the liquid
gasket.
NOTE:
•
Apply a 2.5 mm (0.098 in) diameter bead of liquid gasket along the broken line.
•
If more than 5 minutes have passed after applying the liquid gasket, remove the old liquid gasket and residue,
then reapply new liquid gasket.
•
Do not apply any sealant where the cam chain case is installed because the sealant will dry before you can
reinstall the case.

76.

Install the oil pan to the engine block.

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77.

Tighten the bolts in three steps. In the final step, torque all bolts, in sequence, to 12 N.m (9 lb-ft).
NOTE:
•
Install the three bolts on the end after installing the cam chain cover.
•
Wait at least 30 minutes after installing the cam chain case before filling the engine with oil.
•
Do not run the engine for at least 3 hours after installing the oil pan.

78.

Install a new oil filter.

79.

Reinstall the clutch case cover and torque the bolts to 12 N.m (8.7 lb-ft). Reinstall the two bolts securing the oil pan
to the transmission and torque them to 64 N.m (47 lb-ft).

80.

Reinstall the cylinder head with a new gasket.
•
•
•

Measure the diameter of each cylinder head bolt at point A and point B.
If either diameter is less than 10.8 mm (0.417 in), replace the cylinder head bolt.
Apply new engine oil to the threads and under the bolt heads of all cylinder head bolts.

•

Torque the cylinder head bolts in sequence to 39 N.m (20 lb-ft). When using a preset click-type torque wrench,
be sure to tighten slowly and do not overtighten. If a bolt makes any noise while you are torquing it, loosen the
bolt and retighten it from the first step.

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•

After torquing, tighten all cylinder head bolts in two steps (90° per step) using the sequence shown above. If
you are using a new cylinder head bolt, tighten the bolt an extra 90°.
NOTE: Remove the cylinder head bolt if you tightened it beyond the specified angle, and go back to the
second bullet to remeasure the bolt. Do not loosen it back to the specified angle.

81.

Reinstall the rocker arm assembly and the camshafts.

82.

Reinstall the cam chain.

83.

Apply liquid gasket to the oil pan where it meets the cam chain case and to the inside edge of the threaded bolt
holes. Install the cam chain case within 5 minutes of applying the liquid gasket.

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84.

Install the cam chain cover.

85.

Reinstall the engine mount bracket and torque the bolts to 44 N.m (33 lb-ft).

Page 28 of 31

•

Reinstall the engine side mount using new bolts and nut.

86. Remove the engine hanger, and reinstall the subframe.

87. Reconnect the power steering feed line to the subframe. Torque the bolt to 9.8 N.m (7.2 lb-ft).
88. Adjust the valve clearance. Refer to the service manual for Valve Clearance Adjustment.
Valve Clearance
Intake: 0.21–0.25 mm (0.0083–0.0098 in)
Exhaust: 0.25–0.29 mm (0.0098–0.0114 in)
Specified Torque (Intake & Exhaust)
7 x 0.75 mm: 14 N·m (1.4 kgf·m, 10 lbf·ft)
Apply new engine oil to the nut threads.
89.
90.
91.
92.
93.
94.
95.
96.
97.

Reinstall the cylinder head cover.
Reinstall the connecting pipe.
Install the intake manifold using new gaskets.
Reinstall the radiator hoses and the heater hoses
Reinstall the EVAP canister purge valve bracket.
Reconnect the engine mount control solenoid connector, and the ground cables.
Reconnect the fuel feed hose, and reinstall the quick-connect fitting cover.
Reconnect the EVAP canister hose and the brake booster vacuum hose.
Install new gasket from TWC to A-pipe.
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98. Reinstall drive belt.

99.
100.
101.
102.
103.
104.

Fill the engine with coolant, using recovered coolant. Add new as needed.
Fill the engine with oil.
Do the battery terminal reconnection procedure.
Crank the engine for about 5 seconds to prime the engine with oil pressure before plugging in the ignition coils.
Reconnect the four ignition coil connectors
Do the idle learn procedure.
END.

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ORDERING PISTONS
Every engine has some combination of A- and B-sized pistons. You can determine the sizes and their locations in
the block by inspecting the markings on the timing chain end of the engine block or by looking at the pistons. If you
look at the piston, the pistons have identifiers; “A” pistons are unmarked; “B” pistons are marked with a “B”. Make
sure you order the appropriate number of each piston size before starting work.

Page 31 of 31