AROW Global Corp

23E018 Emergency Exit Window Latch May Fail – AROW Emergency Exit Windows

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March 8, 2023 NHTSA CAMPAIGN NUMBER: 23E018000

Emergency Exit Window Latch May Fail/FMVSS 217

Emergency windows that open during a crash may not properly retain passengers as intended, increasing their risk of injury.

 

NHTSA Campaign Number: 23E018

Manufacturer AROW Global Corp

Components STRUCTURE

Potential Number of Units Affected 1,500

 

Summary

AROW Global Corp (AROW) is recalling certain MV204 and MV207 emergency exit windows. Please see the recall report for a complete list of part numbers and window sizes. During a crash, the emergency exit window latch may fail and allow the window to open. As such, these windows fail to comply with the requirements of Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard number 217, “Bus Emergency Exits and Window Retention and Release.”

 

Remedy

Arow will provide a parts kit with a new latch component, free of charge. Owner notification letters were mailed March 27, 2023. Owners may contact AROW customer service at 1-715-693-6020.

 

Notes

Owners may also contact the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration Vehicle Safety Hotline at 1-888-327-4236 (TTY 1-800-424-9153), or go to www.nhtsa.gov.

 

AROW Global Service Procedure
Document Revision: 1
Procedure #: 2022-009

 

MV204 Egress Upgrade

MATERIALS:

1 x AR0030053 MV204 Egress Upgrade Kit – RH

 

TOOLS:

1 x Prop Bar (Optional, only needed if keeping window in bus)

1 x 5/32” Hex Wrench

1 x Flathead Screwdriver

1 x Blade Scraper

1 x Wire Cutter Pliers

1 x #2 Phillips Screwdriver

1 x Needle Nose Pliers

1 x #2 Phillips Drill Bit

1 x Drill Driver

1 x 760UV Sealant

1 x Isopropyl Alcohol

1 x Paper towel or cleaning rag

1 x 8” Caliper or longer

1 x Masking Tape Roll

1 x Clamp

1 x #30 Drill Bit

1 x Silicone Lubricant Spray Can 1 x Tack hammer or Ball Peen Hammer

 

PROCEDURE:

Note: It is recommended to remove the mainframe assembly and lay it glass down on a table or bench to allow for easier access to the egress system while performing the upgrade. This is not a necessity but will make removal and installation of the new egress system much more accessible. If the mainframe assembly will be kept in the window, skip steps “Removing the Mainframe Assembly from the Bus” and “Reinstalling the Mainframe Assembly into the Bus”.

Instead, use the 3’ prop bar to hold the mainframe assembly open while performing the upgrade. Removing the Mainframe Assembly from the Bus

1. Pull the emergency release handle located on the jamb of the window and push open the mainframe assembly. See Figure 1.

 

2. Open the mainframe assembly enough to allow access to the hinge retaining screws that are screwed into the female hinge on both sides of the window. These will be visible from the underside of the hinge. See Figures 2a and 2b.

 

3. Remove the hinge retaining screws using the 5/32” hex wrench.

CAUTION: Once the hinge retaining screws have been removed, the male hinge on the mainframe assembly can be disengaged from the female hinge and allow the mainframe to be separated from the subframe if the mainframe assembly is opened a full 90 degrees from the closed position.

4. Remove the mainframe assembly from the subframe by rotating it outward to 90 degrees from resting position and slide it towards the bus body. Be sure to support the mainframe as its weight drops free from the subframe. See Figures 3a and 3b.

 

5. Place the mainframe assembly on a clean flat surface with the glass down to allow optimal access to the egress system.

NOTE: Laying a barrier down, such as cardboard, over the flat surface before placing the mainframe assembly on it can help prevent scratches from getting on the glass.

 

Removing the Old Egress System

1. Begin removing the old egress system from the mainframe assembly by using the blade scraper to remove the sealant covering the split pins along the sill of the mainframe. See Figures 4a and 4b.

 

2. Use the flathead screwdriver to pry out the locator blocks along the sill of the mainframe. See Figures 5a and 5b.

 

3. Once the locator blocks are removed, use the wire cutter pliers to remove the split pins. Grip the side of the split pin that is closest to the glass with the wire cutter pliers. Be sure that the cutting side of the pliers is closest to the glass and contacting the mainframe as shown in Figures 6a and 6b.

 

4. Squeeze the pliers tightly and rock the plier handle towards the glass to slide the split pin up a small amount as shown in Figures 7a and 7b.

 

5. Continue this process of sliding the split pin out until it can be gripped from the interior of the frame. Then reposition the pliers and repeat the same motions until the split pin is removed as shown in Figures 8a and 8b. Do this for all the split pins along the sill of the mainframe.

 

6. With the split pins removed, the ER bar can be disconnected from the ER handle. Slide the ER bar towards the egress handle a small amount to take pressure off the cable connecting the two together. See Figure 9.

 

7. Use the #2 Phillips screwdriver to remove the screw holding the ER cable to the ER bar. Make sure to keep holding the ER bar after the screw is removed to prevent the ER bar from flinging outwards.

8. With the screw removed, guide the ER bar out of the ER track of the mainframe and set it down as shown in Figure 10.

 

9. Use the needle nose pliers to assist in removing the ER bar from the ER spring. It may be necessary to bend the hook of the spring outwards slightly to remove the ER bar. See Figures 11a and 11b.

 

10. Remove the ER handle from the mainframe using the #2 Phillips drill bit and the drill driver to remove the two screws holding it in place. See Figure 12.

 

11. Once the screws are removed, slide the ER cable through the enlarged section of the slot cutout. See Figure 13.

 

12. Clean out any dirt and grime from the exposed egress track using isopropyl alcohol and either a rag or paper towel. Removal of the old egress system is now complete.

 

Drilling Additional Split Pin Holes

1. Add two additional split pin holes to the mainframe to add support to the replacement ER bar. Figure 14 shows the horizontal dimensions that need to be marked on either side of the original split pin holes to drill the additional split pin holes.

 

2. Use the calipers to mark the horizontal locations for the additional split pin holes. Hook one jaw of the caliper on the edge of the original split pin hole and extend the caliper to the necessary dimension. Use the screw lock on the caliper to prevent the dimension from changing while scoring the new location. See Figures 15a and 15b.

 

3. Next, use the other jaw to score a small mark on the mainframe to mark where to align the drill jig for the next step. Repeat this for both sides using each sides respective dimension. See Figures 16a and 16b.

 

4. Once the locations for the additional split pin holes have been marked, use drill jig AR0030101 to drill the holes in the mainframe. Place the drill jig in the egress track and align it so that the center of the hole is lined up to the mark made in the previous step.

5. Once aligned, use the clamp to clamp the jig in place for drilling. Be sure that the clamp is positioned to apply clamping force to the portion of the jig that rests in the egress track and not to the top portion that extends above the mainframe. If not clamped in this manner, the jig will be tilted, and the hole will be drilled at an angle instead of perpendicular to the mainframe. See Figures 17a and 17b.

 

6. Apply a piece of masking tape to the #30 drill bit 1.5” from its tip to use as a depth indicator for drilling the additional split pin holes. See Figure 18.

 

7. Use the taped #30 drill bit and the drill driver to drill the hole in the mainframe. Stop when the tape on the drill bit contacts the drill jig. See Figure 19.

 

8. Repeat steps 4 through 7 for the second additional split pin hole. Be sure to reference Figure 14 and use the correct dimension for the split pin that is being drilled.

9. Clean out any metal shavings from the frame so that they don’t interfere with the operation of the new ER bar assembly. Once both additional holes are drilled and cleaned, the frame is ready for the new egress system to be installed.

 

Installing the New Egress System

1. Spray the egress track along the sill of the window with silicone spray for lubrication.

2.Take the new egress handle AR0030047 and install the ER cable through the slot in the mainframe using the enlarged section of the slot to fit the looped ends through. See Figure 20.

 

3. Apply 760UV sealant to both mounting holes in the ER handle base and then run a bead of sealant between them. See Figure 21.

 

4. Secure the ER handle to the mainframe using the drill driver and the #2 Phillips drill bit to install (2) 0001311F screws through the mainframe into the ER handle base. Clean up any squeezed-out sealant as necessary. See Figure 22.

 

5. With the ER handle installed, feed the ER cable down the side of the mainframe and through the locator block and split pin just below the handle. See Figures 23a and 23b.

 

6. Take the new ER bar assembly AR0030050 and connect the jogged end to the ER return spring. Bend the hook of the ER return spring around the ER bar once installed. See Figures 24a and 24b.

 

7. Place ER bar screw AR0003222 on the tip of the #2 Phillips screwdriver and install the treads through the loop end of the ER cable. Hold the screwdriver, screw, and cable with one hand, using an index finger to keep the screw on the end of the screwdriver as shown in Figure 25.

 

8. With the other hand, place the ER bar assembly into the ER track of the mainframe and slide it towards the ER handle with enough room to install the ER bar screw and hold it in place. See Figure 26.

 

9. Screw the ER bar screw into the ER bar assembly loose enough that the ER cable can move freely. See Figures 27a and 27b.

 

10. Release pressure on the ER bar assembly and let the ER return spring pull the slack out of the system. See Figure 28.

 

11. Fully tighten the ER bar screw.

12. Function test the ER system by pulling the ER handle a few times to ensure the ER bar assembly freely slides forward and returns to its original position.

13. Install 2 of locator block AR0019292 into the ER track along the sill of the window between the ER latches of the ER bar. The locator blocks press into the channel but can be tapped in with a tack or ball peen hammer if necessary. See Figure 29.

 

14. Center each block on one of the split pin holes that are between the ER latches. If the ER latch is too close to the split pin hole to allow the locator block to be centered on the split pin hole, position the locator block with an 1/8” gap between it and the ER latch as shown in Figure 30.

 

15. Install 1 of locator block AR0020076 into the ER track along the sill of the window between the ER return spring and the ER latch. See Figure 31.

 

16. Center the block on the split pin hole that was drilled in this location. If the ER latch is too close to the split pin hole to allow the locator block to be centered on the split pin hole, position the locator block with an 1/8” gap between it and the ER latch as shown in Figure 30 above.

17. With the locator blocks centered on their respective split pin holes, take the #30 drill bit and the drill driver and drill through the locator blocks using the split pin holes as guides. Do not drill the split pin holes in the frame any deeper than they already are, just drill through the locator blocks to allow the split pins to be installed. See Figures 32a and 32b.

 

18. Blow out the plastic shavings once the locator blocks have been drilled out. Actuating the ER handle while blowing the shavings out can help clear all of the shavings out of the system.

 

19. Install 4 of split pin 0001110F into the split pin holes along the sill of the mainframe. Use the tack hammer or a ball peen hammer to tap them flush with the mainframe. See Figures 33a and 33b.

NOTE: The split pin hole closest to the ER handle does not have a locator block installed centered on it. That split pin hole only gets a split pin installed into it.

 

20. Function test the ER system by pulling the ER handle a few times to ensure the ER bar assembly freely slides forward and returns to its original position. There may be a slight gritty feel as the ER handle passes beyond half of its actuation distance. This is acceptable and will not affect the ability of the egress system to function properly and within acceptable limits.

21. Clean the surface of the split pin and frame with alcohol then cover all the newly installed split pins with 760UV sealant and let sit for 1 hour before reinstalling into the bus. See Figure 34.

 

22. Once the 760UV sealant has cured for 1 hour, spray each newly installed locator block with silicone spray for lubrication as shown in Figure 35. The new egress system has now been fully installed and the mainframe assembly is ready to be reinstalled into the bus.

 

Reinstalling the Mainframe Assembly into the Bus

1. Reinstall the mainframe assembly into the bus by reversing the steps listed in section “Removing the Mainframe Assembly from the Bus” above.

2. Once the mainframe hinge is hooked, and the hinge retention screws have been reinstalled, visually inspect the alignment of the egress latches to the egress strikes to ensure that they are in alignment with each other.

3. Close the mainframe by pushing it open to a 45-degree angle and letting it drop closed on the subframe. If the window does not fully latch, open it to a greater angle and repeat until the mainframe fully latches on the subframe. The mainframe assembly is now reinstalled into the bus.

 

924 North Park View Circle | Mosinee, Wisconsin USA 54455 | P: 715.693.6020 | F: 715.693.7108 | www.arowglobal.com

 

AROW Global Service Procedure
Document Revision: 0
Procedure #: 2023-001

 

MV207 Egress Upgrade – 3 Latch

MATERIALS:

1 x AR0031337 MV207 Egress Upgrade Kit – LH 3 Latch

 

TOOLS:

1 x Prop Bar (Optional, only needed if keeping window in bus)

1 x 5/32” Hex Wrench

1 x Flathead Screwdriver

1 x Blade Scraper

1 x Wire Cutter Pliers

1 x #2 Phillips Screwdriver

1 x Needle Nose Pliers

1 x Drill Driver

1 x 760UV Sealant

1 x Isopropyl Alcohol

1 x Paper towel or cleaning rag

1 x 6” Caliper

1 x Tape Measure

1 x Marking Pen

1 x Masking Tape Roll

1 x Clamp

1 x #30 Drill Bit

1 x 17/64” Drill Bit

1 x Silicone Lubricant Spray Can

1 x Tack hammer or Ball Peen Hammer

1 x 8-32 Rivet Nut Installation Tool

1 x Deburring Tool 1 x 3/32” Hex Wrench

 

PROCEDURE:

Note: It is recommended to remove the mainframe assembly and lay it glass down on a table or bench to allow for easier access to the egress system while performing the upgrade. This is not a necessity but will make removal and installation of the new egress system much more accessible. If the mainframe assembly will be kept in the window, skip steps “Removing the Mainframe Assembly from the Bus” and “Reinstalling the Mainframe Assembly into the Bus”. Instead, use the prop bar to hold the mainframe assembly open while performing the upgrade.

 

Removing the Mainframe Assembly from the Bus

1. Pull the emergency release handle located on the jamb of the window and push open the mainframe assembly. See Figure 1.

 

2. Open the mainframe assembly enough to allow access to the hinge retaining screws that are screwed into the female hinge on both sides of the window. These will be visible from the underside of the hinge. See Figures 2a and 2b.

 

3. Remove the hinge retaining screws using the 5/32” hex wrench.

CAUTION: Once the hinge retaining screws have been removed, the male hinge on the mainframe assembly can be disengaged from the female hinge and allow the mainframe to be separated from the subframe if the mainframe assembly is opened a full 90 degrees from the closed position.

4. Remove the mainframe assembly from the subframe by rotating it outward to 90 degrees from resting position and slide it towards the bus body. Be sure to support the mainframe as its weight drops free from the subframe. See Figures 3a and 3b.

 

5. Place the mainframe assembly on a clean flat surface with the glass down to allow optimal access to the egress system.

NOTE: Laying a barrier down, such as cardboard, over the flat surface before placing the mainframe assembly on it can help prevent scratches from getting on the glass.

 

Removing the Old Egress System

1. Begin removing the old egress system from the mainframe assembly by using the blade scraper to remove the sealant covering the split pins along the sill of the mainframe. See Figures 4a and 4b.

 

2. Use the flathead screwdriver to pry out the locator blocks along the sill of the mainframe. See Figures 5a and 5b.

 

3. Once the locator blocks are removed, use the wire cutter pliers to remove the split pins. Grip the side of the split pin that is closest to the glass with the wire cutter pliers. Be sure that the cutting side of the pliers is closest to the glass and contacting the mainframe as shown in Figures 6a and 6b.

 

4. Squeeze the pliers tightly and rock the plier handle towards the glass to slide the split pin up a small amount as shown in Figures 7a and 7b.

 

5. Continue this process of sliding the split pin out until it can be gripped from the interior of the frame. Then reposition the pliers and repeat the same motions until the split pin is removed as shown in Figures 8a and 8b. Do this for all the split pins along the sill of the mainframe.

 

6. With the split pins removed, the ER bar can be disconnected from the ER handle. Slide the ER bar towards the egress handle a small amount to take pressure off the cable connecting the two together. See Figure 9.

 

7. Use the #2 Phillips screwdriver to remove the screw holding the ER cable to the ER bar. Make sure to keep holding the ER bar after the screw is removed to prevent the ER bar from flinging outwards.

8. With the screw removed, guide the ER bar out of the ER track of the mainframe and set it down as shown in Figure 10.

 

9. Use the needle nose pliers to assist in removing the ER bar from the ER spring. It may be necessary to bend the hook of the spring outwards slightly to remove the ER bar. See Figures 11a and 11b.

 

10. Clean out any dirt and grime from the exposed egress track using isopropyl alcohol and either a rag or paper towel. Removal of the old egress system is now complete.

 

Drilling Additional Split Pin Holes

1. Add two additional split pin holes to the mainframe to add support to the replacement ER bar. Figure 12 shows the horizontal dimensions that need to be marked on either side of the original split pin holes to drill the additional split pin holes.

 

2. Use the caliper to mark the horizontal locations for the additional split pin holes. Hook one jaw of the caliper on the edge of the original split pin hole and extend the caliper to the necessary dimension. Use the screw lock on the caliper to prevent the dimension from changing while scoring the new location. See Figures 13a and 13b.

 

3. Next, use the other jaw to score a small mark on the mainframe to mark where to align the drill jig for the next step. Repeat this for both sides using each sides respective dimension. See Figures 14a and 14b.

 

4. Once the locations for the additional split pin holes have been marked, use drill jig AR0030101 to drill the holes in the mainframe. Place the drill jig in the egress track and align it so that the center of the hole is lined up to the mark made in the previous step.

5. Once aligned, use the clamp to clamp the jig in place for drilling. Be sure that the clamp is positioned to apply clamping force to the portion of the jig that rests in the egress track and not to the top portion that extends above the mainframe. If not clamped in this manner, the jig will be tilted, and the hole will be drilled at an angle instead of perpendicular to the mainframe. See Figures 15a and 15b.

 

6. Apply a piece of masking tape to the #30 drill bit 1.5” from its tip to use as a depth indicator for drilling the additional split pin holes. See Figure 16.

 

7. Use the taped #30 drill bit and the drill driver to drill the hole in the mainframe. Stop when the tape on the drill bit contacts the drill jig. See Figure 17.

 

8. Repeat steps 4 through 7 for the second additional split pin hole. Be sure to reference Figure 12 and use the correct dimension for the split pin that is being drilled.

9. Clean out any metal shavings from the frame so that they don’t interfere with the operation of the new ER bar assembly. Once both additional holes are drilled and cleaned, the frame is ready for the new egress system to be installed.

 

Installing the New ER Bar in the Mainframe Assembly

1. Spray the egress track along the sill of the window with silicone spray for lubrication.

2. Take the new ER bar assembly AR0030208 and connect the jogged end to the ER return spring. Bend the hook of the ER return spring around the ER bar once installed. See Figures 18a and 18b.

 

3. Place ER bar screw AR0003222 on the tip of the #2 Phillips screwdriver and install the treads through the loop end of the ER cable. Hold the screwdriver, screw, and cable with one hand, using an index finger to keep the screw on the end of the screwdriver as shown in Figure 19.

 

4. With the other hand, place the ER bar assembly into the ER track of the mainframe and slide it towards the ER handle with enough room to install the ER bar screw and hold it in place. See Figure 20.

 

5. Screw the ER bar screw into the ER bar assembly loose enough that the ER cable can move freely. See Figures 21a and 21b.

 

6. Release pressure on the ER bar assembly and let the ER return spring pull the slack out of the system. See Figure 22.

 

7. Fully tighten the ER bar screw.

8. Function test the ER system by pulling the ER handle a few times to ensure the ER bar assembly freely slides forward and returns to its original position.

9. Install 4 of locator block AR0019292 into the ER track along the sill of the window between the ER latches of the ER bar. The locator blocks press into the channel but can be tapped in with a tack or ball peen hammer if necessary. See Figure 23.

 

10. Center each block on one of the split pin holes that are between the ER latches. If the ER latch is too close to the split pin hole to allow the locator block to be centered on the split pin hole, position the locator block with an 1/8” gap between it and the ER latch as shown in Figure 24.

 

11. Actuate the ER bar once the locator blocks have been placed to ensure that they clear the latch bodies.

12. With the locator blocks centered on their respective split pin holes, take the #30 drill bit and the drill driver and drill through the locator blocks using the split pin holes as guides. Do not drill the split pin holes in the frame any deeper than they already are, just drill through the locator blocks to allow the split pins to be installed. See Figures 25a and 25b.

 

13. Blow out the plastic shavings once the locator blocks have been drilled out. Actuating the ER handle while blowing the shavings out can help clear all of the shavings out of the system.

 

14. Install 4 of split pin 0001110F into the split pin holes along the sill of the mainframe. Use the tack hammer or a ball peen hammer to tap them flush with the mainframe. See Figures 26a and 26b.

 

15. Function test the ER system by pulling the ER handle a few times to ensure the ER bar assembly freely slides forward and returns to its original position.

16. Clean the surface of the split pin and frame with isopropyl alcohol then cover all the newly installed split pins with 760UV sealant and let sit for 1 hour before reinstalling into the bus or fully closing the window. See Figure 27.

 

17. See Figure 28 for the complete updated ER bar in the mainframe assembly.

 

18. Once the 760UV sealant has cured for 1 hour, spray each newly installed locator block with silicone spray for lubrication as shown in Figure 29. The new ER bar has now been fully installed and the mainframe assembly is ready to be reinstalled into the bus.

 

Drilling the Additional ER Strike Plate Holes

1. With the mainframe assembly removed or propped open, face the window from the outside of the bus and use the tape measure to mark the location of the additional ER strike hole. Measure 12-1/4” from the inside edge of the right ER strike and use the marking pen to mark the location on the subframe. See Figures 30a and 30b.

 

2. Once the location for the additional ER strike has been marked, use drill jig AR0031338 to drill the holes in the subframe. Tilt the drill jig to be under the inner subframe seal and rotate it to sit down on the sill of the subframe, making sure that the inner seal doesn’t interfere with the drill jig contacting the inner wall of the subframe extrusion. See Figures 31a and 31b.

 

3. Align the drill jig so that the mark that was made on the subframe in step 1 is centered in the right-side hole of the drill jig. See Figure 32.

 

4. Once aligned, use the clamp to clamp the jig in place for drilling. Verify that the drill jig is fully seated on the subframe surface before drilling. See Figures 33a and 33b.

 

5. Use the 17/64” drill bit and the drill driver to drill the ER strike holes in the subframe. Be sure that the drill jig doesn’t shift between hole drilling operations as that could cause the holes to be misaligned. See Figure 34.

 

6. Once the holes have been drilled, use the deburr tool to clean any burrs that were left from drilling so that the rivet nuts have a clean surface to mount to. See Figure 35.

 

7. Once both additional holes are drilled and cleaned, the frame is ready for the additional ER strike plate to be installed.

 

Installing the Additional ER Strike Plate in the Subframe Assembly

1. Use the rivet nut installation tool to install 1 of 0000870F into each of the new holes that were drilled in the subframe. See Figures 36a and 36b.

 

2. With the rivet nuts installed, put a small bead of 760UV sealant around the rivet nut heads. Do NOT put any sealant into the rivet nuts. See Figure 37.

 

3. Take the ER strike plate 0004040C and install the two AR0020115 screws into the mounting holes of the strike plate. See Figure 38.

 

4. Align the ER strike plate and screws over the rivet nuts and drop the screws into the rivet nuts. Avoid getting any sealant on the screws as they drop in. See Figure 39.

 

5. Use the 3/32” hex wrench to tighten the screws into the rivet nuts. Be careful not to cross-thread the screws into the rivet nuts.

NOTE: The screws have a Loctite patch applied to them that will prevent them from loosening.

6. Clean up any sealant that has squeezed out around the additional ER strike plate, especially along the interior edge where the ER plunger will latch and interface with the ER strike.

7. Use the blade scraper to remove a section of the outer subframe seal the width of the additional ER strike plate. It is ok if some adhesive residue is left behind once the seal is removed. The adhesive residue can be cleaned off using isopropyl alcohol if desired. See Figures 40a and 40b.

 

8. The additional ER strike has now been fully installed. See Figure 41.

 

Reinstalling the Mainframe Assembly into the Bus

1. Reinstall the mainframe assembly into the bus by reversing the steps listed in section “Removing the Mainframe Assembly from the Bus” above.

2. Once the mainframe hinge is hooked, and the hinge retention screws have been reinstalled, visually inspect the alignment of the egress latches to the egress strikes to ensure that they are in alignment with each other.

3. Close the mainframe by pushing it open to a 45-degree angle and letting it drop closed on the subframe. If the window does not fully latch, open it to a greater angle and repeat until the mainframe fully latches on the subframe. The mainframe assembly is now reinstalled into the bus.

 

924 North Park View Circle | Mosinee, Wisconsin USA 54455 | P: 715.693.6020 | F: 715.693.7108 | www.arowglobal.com

 

Chronology :

2020- AROW discovered there were no test reports in our records verifying compliance to FMVSS 217 relating to four window types.

2020-two of the suspect non-compliant window types were tested and verified as being non-compliant, the remaining two window types were assumed to be non-compliant since they were similar

2020-2022-additional testing and analysis occurred to achieve compliance with FMVSS 217

2023 (March)-initiation of this recall along with the rework procedure and production of parts required for the rework.

 

1 Affected Product

Equipment

BRAND PART NO. PRODUCTION DATES
AROW GLOBAL BUS EMERGENCY EXIT WINDOW

 

7 Associated Documents

Recall Acknowledgement

RCAK-23E018-7811.pdf 647.079KB

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Noncompliance Notice 573 Report

RCLRPT-23E018-6114.PDF 217.559KB

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Recall 573 Report – 3/17/2023

RCLRPT-23E018-5530.PDF 217.772KB

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ISSUED Owner Notification Letter(Part 577)

RCONL-23E018-6618.pdf 702.818KB

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Remedy Instructions and TSB

RCRIT-23E018-8630.pdf 2296.143KB

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Remedy Instructions and TSB

RCRIT-23E018-3836.pdf 2597.074KB

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Recall 573 Report – 3/27/2023

RCLRPT-23E018-6555.PDF 219.306KB

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Latest Recalls Documents

For the Latest and Most Recent Recalls Information Visit the link below…

https://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/acms/cs/documentList.xhtml?docId=23E018&docType=RCL

 

 

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Bestseller No. 2
RV Murts Emergency Window Latch Up Side, Aluminum Teardrop Trailer EXIT Window Lock Bar, Pop Out Camper Egress Window Security Support Crank Holder for Travel Cargo Horse Trailer,Safty RV Accessories.
RV Murts Emergency Window Latch Up Side, Aluminum Teardrop Trailer EXIT Window Lock Bar, Pop Out Camper Egress Window Security Support Crank Holder for Travel Cargo Horse Trailer,Safty RV Accessories.
  • Secure the RV EXIT Window: Replace the old egress window support with RV Murts emergency pop out window latch will providing extra peace of mind on-the-go. Aluminum steel bar has reliability for supporting your fully opened emergency window or lock it tightly for property protection.
  • Safety First. Replace the old and cracking window bar with emergency window latch in time to avoid breaking the window when in emergency situation, keep your families safe, with a striking red handle helps you to quickly find the EXIT in the dark.
  • Match the USA Standard: RV Murts EXIT window latch meets the need of everyday window support, with prominent steel fits for long time prop up job, plus, as a reliable window lock bar to secure the EXIT window tightly even the cold wind in winter can't enter, protecting your property.
  • Two Design for Fitment: Offer 2 kinds of up side and down side window latch, the catch and keeper of egress window latch can spin 180 degrees to place on the left or right side and face up and down, designed 2 ways 4 screw holes to fit various EXIT windows, P7 shows size of each part, packaged with screws to ensure a secure fit.
  • One Order for All: Keep your RV egress windows safe and secure with this reliable RV Exit window latch. Package included all the parts and accessories you need, please confirm the right kind latch you need, so can replace the old bar with RV egress window latch right away!
$16.99 Amazon Prime
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Bestseller No. 3
CULMKARI Rear Quarter Window Latch Gray Fits for 2000-2006 Toyota Tundra Replaces 62920-34012-B1 (Left Driver Side)
CULMKARI Rear Quarter Window Latch Gray Fits for 2000-2006 Toyota Tundra Replaces 62920-34012-B1 (Left Driver Side)
  • Fit for: 2000-2006 Toyota Tundra.
  • Replace Part Number: 62920-34012-B1. Please check it fit for your model.
  • High-quality: Made of quality materials for reliable service, exact equivalent part meets the original manufacturer’s specifications and features.
  • Easy Secure Installation: Plug and play, this product can be easily installed by yourself in minutes, no special skills required.
  • Customer Service: All products are sold after strict inspection. We provide with professional consulting all the time. Contact with us if you have anything with question, we'll reply within 16 hours to offer help.
$19.79 Amazon Prime
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SaleBestseller No. 4
Window Latch Locks Replacement Window Parts Plastic Construction Window Tilt Latch Spring Loaded Sliding Window Tilt Latch Pairs
Window Latch Locks Replacement Window Parts Plastic Construction Window Tilt Latch Spring Loaded Sliding Window Tilt Latch Pairs
  • Quality Material: The window tilt latch replacement is made of plastic, which is strong and not easy to break or deform.
  • Window Parts: These tilt latch pairs are suitable for single or double hung vertical sliding windows.
  • Elegant Design: The plastic construction spring-loaded latch pairs feature a classic white design that will complement your home decor.
  • Easy to Use: Snap type sliding window tilt latch are easy to install and operate, saving time and effort.
  • Window Latch Repair Kit: A total of 4 pieces of tilt window locks, including 2 left-hand locks and 2 right-hand locks, can replace old windows.
$8.99 −$1.00 $7.99 Amazon Prime
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Bestseller No. 5
Aucuda RV EXIT Window Latch Bracket, RV Emergency EXIT Window Latch Holder, Black EXIT Window Parts for RV Window Latches, RV Window Latch Replacement Accessories, Camper Windows Latch Hardware.
Aucuda RV EXIT Window Latch Bracket, RV Emergency EXIT Window Latch Holder, Black EXIT Window Parts for RV Window Latches, RV Window Latch Replacement Accessories, Camper Windows Latch Hardware.
  • Premium Window Latch Bracket for RV: Aucuda rv emergency window latch will help you keep your windows secure while on the road. Universal application for any size RV window, make sure your RV is safe and secure with the durable and reliable RV window latch bracket from Aucuda.
  • Perfect Fit Every Time: Aucuda heavy-duty window secure bar holder is designed to be universally applied to any size RV window, ensuring a perfect fit every time. The perfect solution for keeping your windows secure no matter where you are.
  • Excellent Durability: The RV egress window keeper has solid construction ensures long lasting strength and durability, provide protection against the elements, guard you and your families in years.
  • Easy-to-Install: The simple design will make it easy to attach to any RV window frame, requiring minimal tools to mount it, only takes 1 minute to install, and you can enjoy peace of mind knowing that your RV is secured with Aucuda RV window latch bracket.
  • Aucuda RV Window Latch Bracket: Package ONLY contains one set of latch bracket, the latch is NOT included. The durable and secure way to bring convenience and safety to your RV-living experience, thank you for choosing Aucuda EXIT window holder to guard your safety!
$8.99
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SaleBestseller No. 6
Dorman 76989 Sliding Window Latch Kit Compatible with Select Dodge / Ford Models
Dorman 76989 Sliding Window Latch Kit Compatible with Select Dodge / Ford Models
  • Direct replacement - this sliding window latch is designed to match the fit and function of the original latch on specified vehicles.Material:Plastic
  • Restores functionality - this latch is made to fit and fully restore part functionality after the original latch fails
  • Durable construction - this part is made from quality materials to ensure reliable performance and long service life
  • Trustworthy quality - backed by team of product experts in the United States and more than a century of automotive experience
  • Ensure fit - to make sure this part fits your exact vehicle, input your make, model and trim level into the garage tool
$13.63 −$3.14 $10.49 Amazon Prime
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Bestseller No. 7
Rear Window Latch Bolt Nut Screw Cab Glass Fits 2003-17 Sienna GSL ASL - 1 Set
Rear Window Latch Bolt Nut Screw Cab Glass Fits 2003-17 Sienna GSL ASL - 1 Set
  • Fits 2003-17 Toyota Rear Window Latch: The rear window latch nut screw is used to repair or replace the Sienna rear window glass lock to ensure the stability and safety of the rear window glass, prevent rain, dust and wind noise from entering the car, and improve driving comfort and safety.
  • Function: This rear window latch bolt nut screw cab glass is made of high-quality materials and workmanship, durable, rust-proof, anti-corrosion, and not easily deformed or damaged.
  • Easy to install: It works perfectly with the original rear window glass lock, no additional tools or modifications are required, and the installation is simple and convenient.
  • Packaging: Package contains 1x thumb screw and nut, 2 x rubber washers.
  • Excellent Service: Thank you for purchasing our rear window latch nut screw. If you are not satisfied with our rear window screws or have questions, please feel free to contact us and we will give you the best solution immediately.
$14.99 Amazon Prime
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Bestseller No. 8
Window Latch Locks, 3-3/8' x 1' Window Tilt Latch Replacement Parts Plastic Spring-Loaded Tilt Latch Window Hardware Clip 2 Inch Hole Center Spacing Sliding Lock (White,2 Pair)
Window Latch Locks, 3-3/8" x 1" Window Tilt Latch Replacement Parts Plastic Spring-Loaded Tilt Latch Window Hardware Clip 2 Inch Hole Center Spacing Sliding Lock (White,2 Pair)
  • QUANTITY & SIZE INFORMATION - The window locks security includes 2 pairs of tilt latches (4 pieces in total), consisting of both left and right-handed options. Before purchasing, please ensure to check the product size, which measures 3 x 1 inches, to confirmed a proper fit for your windows.
  • DURABLE AND RELIABLE - Our spring-loaded window tilt latch is made of high-quality plastic, ensuring long-lasting performance without easily breaking or deforming. It is a reliable choice that will serve you well for years to come.
  • EASY INSTALLATION - Installing our sliding window tilt latch is a breeze. It is lightweight, portable, You can quickly and effortlessly install it without the need for extensive time or effort.
  • VERSATILE APPLICATION - Designed for single and double hung vertical sliding sash panels, our tilt latch allows for easy tilting inward and downward from the top, facilitating convenient cleaning and maintenance.
  • PERFECTLY MATCHES YOUR DECOR - With its classic color, our sliding window tilt latch blends seamlessly with any home decoration style. It won't disrupt the overall aesthetics of your house, ensuring a harmonious and visually pleasing look.
$7.69 Amazon Prime
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Bestseller No. 9
Prime-Line F 2897 Window Sash Lock 2-3/16 H/C No Keep Pilaster Off White w/Screws (Single Pack)
Prime-Line F 2897 Window Sash Lock 2-3/16 H/C No Keep Pilaster Off White w/Screws (Single Pack)
  • Designed for use with Silverline windows that have mounting holes 2-3/16 inch on center
  • Used in vertical-sliding single- and double-hung windows in New Jersey and some other states
  • Constructed of durable plastic and comes in a beautiful white finish, with all the necessary instructions and fasteners needed for installation
  • Spring-loaded lever with cam-action locking allows you to lock your window securely (Keeper is sold separately)
  • Please refer to the line art drawing for dimensions and compare with your original item before purchasing (Not Universal)
$8.99 Amazon Prime
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SaleBestseller No. 10
RLB-HILON 2 PCS Rear Quarter Glass Window Latch Compatible with Toyota Pickup Hilux 1989 -1997 Tacoma 1989 -1999, Gray Color
RLB-HILON 2 PCS Rear Quarter Glass Window Latch Compatible with Toyota Pickup Hilux 1989 -1997 Tacoma 1989 -1999, Gray Color
  • Compatible with Toyota Tacoma 1989 1990 1991 1992 1993 1994 1995 1996 1997 1998 1999 Year
  • Compatible with Toyota Pickup Hilux 89 90 91 92 93 94 95 96 97 Year
  • RLB-HILON Rear Quarter Glass Window Latches at Gray Color
  • Package Included: 1pair Rear Quarter Glass Window Latches, Installation Instruction is not included; Please make sure these window latches can fit for your car before placed the order.
  • 3-MONTH WARRANTY: If for any reason at all, you are not fully satisfied with the window latches, you can rely on our service of free REPLACEMENT or REFUND
$17.99 −$1.00 $16.99 Amazon Prime
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Last update on 2024-04-20 / Affiliate links / Images from Amazon Product Advertising API

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